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pants crotch and legs

Tessa | Posted in Fitting on

Hello to all. I am new here. I live in Toronto, Canada. I sew clothing mostly for myself. I can fit my blouses not to badly but I’m still having trouble with my pants.  My current problem is – I was able to fit the crotch nicely by adding an inch to the bum seam and tapering to zero at the side seam. But then the back leg inseam doesn’t match the front leg inseam. Now what do I do?  Thanks a lot. Tessa in Toronto. 


  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    Welcome to Gatherings! You'll find that most here are more than willing to help if we can.

    I'm not sure I understand exactly where you are adding to your crotch length. Are you inserting a wedge at centre back or are you extending the crotch point? If you are adding a wedge by cutting the pattern open from centre back to the side seam and spreading it only at the back (tapering to 0 at the side seam), it shouldn't affect the inseam length at all. If, however, you are extending the crotch point, the inseams will be affected. Can you be more precise in telling us the alteration you are making?


  2. ElonaM | | #2

    If you are not already doing so, I recommend you try Burda pants patterns. They have just about the best, most realistic, crotch curve in the business, and I'll bet you'll have to do a lot less alteration if you start with Burda.

    Burda has a detailed measuring sequence, and it's a good idea to follow it to the letter to choose your own size lines (that's right--plural) when you trace off your own pattern.

    1. Tessa | | #3

      Thank you Sandy and Elona. I am not using burda because I am trying, on principle, to get my pattern drafing software right!  I do agree about Burda.  I did add only to the croch curve. Not the point. The inseam is the same length as before.  Ok, I thought about it some more. - When you add in a trianglular shape how do you redraw your grain-line? because then the knees and hem are perpendicluar to this new grainline. Maybe I should start at the hem, instead of the waist. that way the legs still have the old line and will match and the back around the bum is just very slanted! Thank you so much!  I will try that! Bouncing your ideas off other people really helps.  

      Elona - are you from Barrie?

      1. FitnessNut | | #4


        What I was taught in pattern drafting classes (International Academy of Design) is that the grainline is drawn from the hem upwards on pants. Mark your hemline at the center, the knee line at the centre and draw a line connecting these two points and perpendicular to the hemline, continuing to the waist of the pants. That is your grainline and also your crease if your design calls for pressed-in creases. Yes the upper part of the pants becomes quite slanted when you insert the wedge, but that's okay. I ALWAYS recommend making any new pattern in muslin or other cheap fabric to check that all is okay, both from a fitting and design standpoint.

        I'm curious...what pattern drafting software are you using? I haven't played with mine much as of yet, but that's on the agenda as soon as I'm finished the suit that's spread all over my sewing room!


        BTW, I'm from Toronto too, although I don't live there anymore (that's what happens when you marry a man in the army!) Much of my family is still there or within hailing distance. I hear its pretty cold this week :-(

      2. ElonaM | | #5

        Nope, not from Barrie. Southern California, where it's nice and warm.

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