princess pattern futher questions
thanks for answering my grainline question. I think I had intuited the answer but wanted the simpler solution. So the next question is : I put my vogue 7854 tunic (a shoulder princess with dropped shoulders) on top of their sloper to compare. I was surprised to find that the seam does not run through the bust point, but about an inch to the side. There is also a seam below where a side dart would be. So are these shaping seams or just decotitive seams? Where do I put my usual full bust adjustment and take out shoulder width? THanks so much for any help with my confusion!
This is just a guess since I don't have the pattern. It is not unusual for a princess line to run about 1" outside of the bust point (remember that a bust dart often stops 1" from the actual bust point and a princess line is a dart equivalent). As far as the seam at the bustline I suspect that is also a dart -- part of the shaping is in the "bust dart seam" and part in the princess seam. Think about starting with a bust dart (also called a side dart) and rotating half of that amount to the princess seam and leaving the other half in the bust dart. This means that the area above the bust on the side front does not have to be as much on the bias as if the entire dart was transferred to the princess seam. Hope this helps.
I did consider rotating the bust dart as you sugested, but the side dart is 1 1/2 inches below the bust line on the original pattern. I think it may end up looking like a too low dart. I am planing to make a muslin , but I'm trying to think it through first.
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