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Serging Princess Seams with Knits

Leeza | Posted in Teach Yourself To Sew on

I just read Kenneth’s excellent article on Princess seams – where was he on my last few projects when I needed this advice…?? 

On my current project however, I’m working with a very slippery moderate-stretch knit (“Jet Set”) that doesn’t hold a press.   The project calls for Princess seams, and because the dress will fit close to the body, I decided to use my serger to get rid of as much bulk in the seam allowance as possible.  Since you can’t clip/notch the curves using this process are there other “best practices” to use for Princess seams when serging with knits?  Even though I pin-basted diligently, my fabric pieces slid all over the place and the finished seams pucker.  I fully recognize that the fabric I chose may be much of the issue – but any advice would be appreciated.


  1. marymary | | #1

    Serging Princess Seams with Knits

    Leeza, when I have a slippery washable fabric that won't behave, I use strips of embroidery stabilizer when I sew the seam.  Of course, you want to use the kind that dissolves in water.  I save the pieces left over from embroidery in a plastic bag and just pull out scraps as I need them.

  2. sewchris703 | | #2

    I hand baste just inside the seam allowance with matching or a little lighter thread.  That way I don't have to take the basting thread out.  And the fabric that has to be eased into the seam goes on the bottom next to the feed dogs.  That way the machine does all the work of the easing.


  3. User avater
    Leeza | | #3


    Marymary and Sewchris - thanks so much for the tips...I'm just at the point of another project with princess seams and I will definitely use your suggestions.  Thanks again - (sorry it took so long to reply - been sewing!)

  4. stillsuesew | | #4

    You can always sew the seam first in whatever way you need to to control the fabric and then serge the edge later for the same result.

  5. fredjan | | #5

    Knit...princess seam

    Hi Leeza,

         Didn't read King's article...but I have sewed these seams on knits and on those curves...it's best to snip at intervals and then lightly iron(wrong side)and I think that would be the way to go...Knits are wonderful to wear...becuz they conform to your curves.  Probably on this particulaar knit...not a good idea to serge.  There are so MANY variations of knit!  Hope this helps.


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