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troubleshooting darts

rlk | Posted in General Discussion on

Hey, Y’all!  I am having trouble with the bust darts on a very simple dress, the problem may be with the sheer-over-lining two layers at once technique.  They won’t hang right, they go all pointy right where no one wants pointy!!

Replies

  1. kayl | | #1

    Too pointy usually means you've got a dart that's too long. Try sewing

    the same dart uptake, but back the point of the dart off a bit...

    how much depends on how rounded you want things to look. I'd pinfit

    or hand baste the trial, and then sew when you get the look you want.

    To give you an example of "sewing the same dart uptake"...

    consider a dart that's 2" wide at the side seam, and 6" long.

    If I wanted to shorten the dart, but keep the same dart uptake,

    the new dart would still be 2" wide at the side seam, but 5" (or whatever) long.

    Or by "too pointy", do you mean that there's that funny little pucker

    at the end of the dart? If so, try sewing the last few stitches

    catching only one or two threads -- basically, you want the point to

    taper out to nothing, rather than proceeding at a constant angle with

    the rest of the dart.

    1. rlk | | #2

      Thanks for the suggestions!  I think both problems may have hit me at once!  I guess I usually get away with slightly sloppy darts because I rarely use such unforgiving fabric as these two are... nylon sheer over polyester lining!!  and I have four of these to make for my daughter's wedding.

      1. kayl | | #3

        With four of the same dress to do, you might want to make

        sure the darts point toward the various wearer's bust points

        by the pin-fit method before sewing the darts -- that way you

        can do the most flattering thing for each wearer. If this is an

        issue, you might want to add some extra width at the seam

        allowance, in case you have to change the angle of the darts.

        for an inch or so above and below the dart.

        You might also want to consider shaped darts, where you

        don't sew the dart in a straight line, but in a slightly curved

        shape. This can be a little tricky with your fabrics, but

        if you were to baste the two fabrics together by hand first, I

        think you'd have no problem. At the tip of the dart, though, you

        still want that "just catch a couple of threads" ending. On some

        fabrics, I've found it easier to sew darts from the skinny end

        to the wide end, too... just the opposite of what I was taught.

        <g>

        Sounds like you've got a challenge! Enjoy it!

        Kay

        1. rlk | | #4

          Thanks!!  I was looking at the one dart that seems the worst and realized that even though I had basted down the center line (fold line) I had some how let the two layers shift just the tiniest bit right at the skiny end of the dart, my basting did not go far enough or was not secure enough!  I'll take it all out again and hope I don't end up needing to cut out two new bodices!!

          PS after I finish these 4 I get to start on the 4 flower girl dresses , pink, purple,green or blue sheer over white lining. then comes the Matron of Honor (complete with new baby-due in Dec.) We are making a nursing dress for her from Elizabeth Lee Designs. Thankfully it has no darts!!

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