Some of you may remember the 18th Century gentleman’s suit I constructed for a local organist – I needed advice on giving him enough room in the shoulders to play the organ and conduct. Raising the armholes and pleats in the sleeve back worked, and the suit has been a great success.
Same client, new problem. He is long waisted, and an “athletic” conductor, and his shirt tails are constantly pulling out and blousing out at the bottom of his vest. I’m reluctant to make the vest too long – he has fairly short legs as it is.
I wonder is anyone has tried replacing the waistband of formal trousers with a wider waistband – four or five inches, flat and tailored in the front with wide, strong elastic across the back. It will not show under the full-backed vest, and would keep the shirt tails under control. But, I need suggestions on how to keep it from sagging and possibly folding over. Vertical boning? Heavy interfacing in front? (He refuses to wear suspenders, and does have a bit of a belly.)
Any suggestions would be appreciated.