Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Conversational Threads

Twin needle sewing on knits

Pearl5 | Posted in General Discussion on

Can someone tell me what the  stitch width and length should be using a twin needle to turn and stitch neck and hem on a knit t. shirt?  Thanks!





  1. Crazy K | | #1

    I would set my stitch width at "0" and stitch length at about 3.0 or 3.5.  You didn't say the width of your double needle...........if it is very wide you can't safely do a zz stitch without hitting the presser foot.  I have the 2.0; 4.0 and 6.0 widths.  They work great and give more stretch to your garment without threads breaking.  One thing I've done in the past to help stabilize the hem is to serge the bottom edge of the t-shirt before hemming.  Then I stitch with the double needle.  It is an extra step and not really necessary because knits don't fray but it does help stabilize the seam.

    That is my 2 cents..............anyone else?

    1. Ralphetta | | #2

      Thanks for the refresher. I have some knit tank tops all ready to shorten, but have been procrastinating because I didn't want to change the serger thread 5 times.  I always serge, but what else can I do to insure  that I don't get a flared hemline?

      The reason I am shortening them is that I remember seeing a stylist on TV saying that shells, tank tops, etc. should END at the fullest part of the body.  I don't know if it's true for everyone, but after hearing her, I realized that I  had intuitively figured out that fact on my own body.  I had been folding them, crushing them, etc. and in some way making them look shorter than they were.  When they hang down longer, they emphasize....okay, I wish I could think of a more flattering term...my belly.

      1. Crazy K | | #3

        There is a product called 'seams great' I believe.  It is a narrow bias netting that you can stitch to your edge and then conceal it in the hem when you turn it up.  I hope I have the name right!  Anywho......there is one that isn't bias and that doesn't stretch at all and the bias one (that would be my choice here) does have some give to it but would stabilize your hem.  Another method I think I've read about (or dreamed about!) is to fuse your hem first with stitch witchery and then stitch.  If you need more stretch,  try a narrow strip of fusible washaway stabilizer which would stabilize during the hemming process and then wash away.....???? maybe???  Maybe someone else would have other ideas.  Mine ideas are always great in theory..........but not always so great in practical use!! ha ha LOL

        Hope I got your thought processes churning!


      2. liselaure | | #4

        Hello Ralphetta,

        I am a personal image consultant. I think you misheard that stylist on T.V. Unless you are really slim, a garment, whatever it is, should never end at one of your widest parts. For instance, a jacket shouldn't come just right to your full hip, a skirt to the widest level of your calves, a short sleeve shouldn't end at bust level if you are full busted, etc.


        1. Ralphetta | | #5

          That is what I'd always heard and that was why it interested me so much.  In this case, though, it seems to work.  The discussion was of a shell worn under a longer jacket. (I don't think I made that point earlier.) If the shell extended below the full part of the belly, it tended to cup under and emphasize it.  If, however, it ended at the fullest point it did not look as full.  Maybe the fact that it makes the lower portion of the body appear longer has something to do with it.  I totally agree with longer to cover the hips, that's why the whole thing fascinated me.  Prior to that, I'd folded, or crushed my tanks, to make them a little shorter, and never really analyzed what I was doing.  All I can say is that it works for me and that's why I'm shortening some tank tops that i wear under shirts and jackets.  The ones I wear alone are long and loose.

          1. Gloriasews | | #6

            You're right, Ralphetta - I have the same problem.  All of my T-shirts (RTW, plus size) are long (about 2-3" below my crotch, which looks dowdy & makes my legs look shorter, so that, when I sit, they fold under the tummy & leave horizontal lines when I stand up - most annoying!  I, too, have been toying with the idea of shortening them all, but I haven't decided upon the right length yet.  The sleeves of these Ts are also down to the elbow, so I roll them up, as they, too,  look so dowdy that way. 

            I have just acquired the Pamela's Perfect T-shirt & her makeover patterns & think I'll start making my own T-shirts, as I'm seldom happy with the ones I buy.  At least I maybe can make over the ones I have so the shoulders fit better, sleeves shorter, tucks in the waist (as you suggested in another thread), bust darts, & maybe, just maybe, get the length correct.  Do you remember a previous thread where one of the posters had her own blog (Debbie's Sewing Projects - with photos of her T-shirt & pants fittings?  It was excellent (I printed them off) & will use those when I'm constructing MY perfect T.  She ended her Ts at the bottom of her stomach, with the sides curves upwards a couple of inches - looked good!

      3. Crazy K | | #7

        You were asking about stabilizing your hem so as not to get flaring.........check out page 59 of the June/July issue of Threads..........there is an article that addresses that specifically!!  I just saw it today as I was paging through my mag .......again!

        They did mention fusing in a strip of interfacing...........soooo, I guess I wasn't so far out in left field after all!! ha ha


  2. suesew | | #8

    You can also put fusible thread in the bottom looper of your serger, serge, press it up and sew from the top with the double needle. Be sure to use a needle that is for knits so you don't skip stitches. I use the 4mm wide one and a 4 stitch length. I like to serge the edge first because the back side looks more like the cover stiitch then. If I have really stretchy fabric I will even use the differential feed to tighten it up and stabilize the fabric a little.

    1. Ralphetta | | #9

      Thanks for all the suggestions. 

This post is archived.

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Conversational Threads

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All