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Welts make me want to cry

Bernie1 | Posted in General Discussion on

I just did the single insert welt pockets on a coat (experimental fabric) for the first time and I want to cry. They look so sloppy. I stitched the outline of the pocket and tried to cut into the corners but the edges look frayed and yucky. What did I do wrong? I followed all the instructions to the letter, applied a fusible interfacing to the back but they don’t look right. I’m thinking of starting the coat front over if I have enough fabric but since I’m trying to learn this technique so I can cut into the nice fashion fabric it’s a rather discouraging experience.


  1. carolfresia | | #1

    Bernie, don't panic yet! I'm not sure what you did "wrong," but it could simply be that you've got an inherently uncooperative fabric. This can happen! Do you have any extra for the "real" coat you're planning? If so, you might want to cut out a small piece and do a practice pocket in that--it could well be that your final fabric will behave nicely, and you'll have gotten upset over nothing.

    Meanwhile, does anyone out there have a set of instructions for a welt pocket that they believe to be foolproof? If so, let us know how to locate these instructions, and maybe Bernie can try again with a different method.



    1. Bernie1 | | #2

      Thanks, Carol: Sorry you won't be at the Worcester Expo because it would have been nice to meet you in person.  I don't have problems with regular welt pockets and in fact I've gotten pretty good at them. The fabric on this coat is a very lightweight wool and probably a cotton blend that I got off the sale table at G Street. I stitched the box around the welt - maybe I should have stitched it again to be sure it was reinforced? If anyone has ever made a Burda coat, they'll know what I mean when I say the welt cutting line is about three quarters the way down ftrom the top of the box and for some reason when I cut into the corners I don't get a good crisp turn. The sides of the single welt itself are unstitched and tucked to the inside of the garment so it's not your standard welt where three finished sides lay outside the pocket. Thanks to you and anyone who can help. I've ordered Judy Barlap's booklet but I may have to redo the entire fronts on this coat. I'll definitely practice practice practice with scraps of the good fabric before I cut into thatl coat. I'm making one for my sister out of a camel hair/wool blend I got from candlelightvalley and one for myself from a rather spongy wool I bought in Paris a few years ago.

      1. SewNancy | | #3

        Dear Bernie,

        Maybe it is the fabric.  Not all fabrics make good welt pockets.  A sample on scrap of the fabric is always a must.  If the fabric is not suitable, an applied welt pocket is a easier to do on heavy fabrics.  Also, you can always make a flap that attaches above welt so that it is hidden and hides the mistake.   There is usually something you can do to salvage the project.  Threads did an article on this a while back.  Also, the author has a book called something 911?  Barbara Deckert is the author, I think.


      2. stitchmd | | #4

        Have you considered a class at G Street? Not sure if they have a welt pockets class but their bound buttonholes class was good, and I learned that you can get different results with each one no matter how carefully you do it! They have tutorial type classes where you get help with whatever you want. I think I know the wool and wool blend sale table you mean and aren't they labelled as skirt material? I think they might be too drapey for the pocket construction. How did you interface it?

        1. Bernie1 | | #5

          I've taken classes at G Street, including the welt pocket class but Connie Long didn't cover this technique - but from her I learned to make wonderful double welts using contrasting fabrics such as ultrasuede. That's what I should have done, ditched the single welt and done a double since that 's what I know. I also have Bobbi Carr's video that teaches bound triangular pockets and I used  the pelican scissors she recommends for cutting the corners. That's what's so frustrating - I thought I'd done it right but it just looks sloppy to me. I was thinking of going back to see Connie for a private lesson.

          1. ShannonG4d | | #6

            Judy Barlup has a terrific single welt.  The instructions are available in a booklet form.  Her website is http://www.uniquetechniques.com ; if you call her, she's a delightful person to deal with!


          2. GoodFibrations | | #7

            ditto on judy barlup a delightful person and great techniques.

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