This cream, yellow, and pink linen jacket was made from Simplicity pattern #5104.  I made quite a bit of alterations to the jacket pattern to accommodate the embellishment that I envisioned.  In order to keep my purchased pattern in tact for future use, I copied the pattern pieces by tracing them and used the traced copy to plan for the piecing seam lines and applique layout.  I knew I wanted an irregular hemline to accentuate the shape of the pansy appliques.  This hemline was planned for on my traced pattern pieces.  Random curved lines were then added as locations for seam lines for my curved piecing.  The pattern pieces were then copied on a photocopier and seam allowances were added to my then very irregularly shaped pattern pieces.  I numbered the pattern pieces on my original and on the photocopied peices in order to keep track of where each piece would go as I constructed the jacket.

I used computer clip art as the basis for the pansy and butterfly appliques.  I simply printed the pictures from the computer and blew the images up on the photocopier.  These gave me the basic shapes of each item.  I then traced the shapes to Heat and Bond Light and fused this to silk dupioni fabric.  The shapes were then cut out and the appliques fused to the jacket.  I then used a shading stitch on my machine to applique the shapes to the jacket.  Then with various rayon threads, I used free motion embroidery to give the flowers “veins” and dimension.  The large pansy “applique” on the front of the jacket is actually a lined patch pocket.

I added facings and a lining to the jacket, as the original jacket pattern was un-lined.

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