Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Tiktok Icon YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Threads Project Guides

Fit & Sew Tops

Guide Home
Chapter
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Learn the Four Fastest Flat-Fell Seams

Threads magazine - 137 – June/July 2008

Sharon K. Blair shows you how to make the four fastest fells — wrapped, stitch and fold, fold and stitch, and double-fold — and which fabrics are best suited fabrics for each. You’ll also learn the standard fell seam and the fake fell, so you can compare them. These fast versions will surely speed up your sewing.


By learning simple techniques, you can create a garment that is as finished on the inside as it is on the outside. Put on your designer cap, and focus on all of the details of a jacket or blouse—including the inside. Rather than hiding your craftsmanship and fully lining a garment, use flat-fell seams to clean finish them. These seams wrap around themselves, so they encase and hide raw edges. Flat-fell seams differ from standing fells, which look more like French seams. Here, I’ll show you how to make the four fastest fells—wrapped, stitch and fold, fold and stitch, and double-fold—and which fabrics are best suited fabrics for each. I’ll also show you the standard fell seam and the fake fell, so you can compare them. My fast versions will surely speed up your sewing.

Wrapped

This is a fine seam for sheer, fragile fabrics but also a sturdy seam for solid construction. Use it to add a professional touch to your shirts.

tuck the raw edges under the stitching line to create wrapped flat-fell seams
Start with right sides together, and stitch a 5⁄8 inch seam allowance. Open the garment flat. Fold the seam allowances together in one direction, tucking both raw edges under to the stitching line.

fold the seam allowances, then press and edgestitch the fold for wrapped flat-fell seams
Fold the seam allowances again in the same direction. Press and edgestitch the folded edge.

Stitch and fold

Less stable fabrics such as corduroy and velvet are ideal for the stitch and fold method.

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial
Previous: Creating Professional-Looking Flat-Felled Shirt Seams Next: Rolling and Felling Feet
Discuss

Discuss

  1. User avater
    mercystreet | | #1

    This new thing really sucks, you guys. What is free here any more? I could see making somethings premium, but most of the topics I've clicked on come up w/your annoying as hell ad to join the Insider.

  2. User avater
    VictoriaNorth | | #2

    Most of the content that was up previously is still free. We added new content that is marked with the "in" logo and those are for-pay. You can still enjoy the same posts that we put up each week for free. If you would only like to see that content bookmark our Threads Daily blog and you will only see the new free content available daily.

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

Fit & Sew Tops

Fit & Sew Tops

Sew beautiful tops with tips from the experts

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Fit & Sew Tops Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Basic Torso Adjustments
Bust Fitting
Sleeves and Shoulders
Construction Secrets: Collars, Yokes, Cuffs, Vents, Plackets
Make It Your Own