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How to Shape a Tailored Collar

Threads magazine - 175 - Oct./Nov. 2014

This article from Threads #175 (October/November 2014) by contributing editor Kenneth D. King shares the secrets of a perfect tailored collar. Kenneth writes:

For centuries, tailoring has relied on many of the same steps. It still depends on hand-stitching layers of fabric into a permanent form. In this article, you can follow my “new-school” variation of the traditional technique used to prepare the hand-set upper and undercollars for a classic notched-lapel jacket. I’ll show you how to shape the collar with pad stitching and pressing. This technique holds the shape for decades of secure wear.

Web Extra: Sew Perfect Collar Points

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  1. AtelierDesigns | | #1

    What is the advantage of pad stitching from circles at the neck rather than using the roll line as the starting point?

  2. User avater
    kennethdking | | #2

    The pad stitching in a circle maintains the stretch of the bias, making the under collar more malleable. Pad stitching following the roll line will lock some of the bias, making for a more difficult time stretching the collar edge and neck seam edge.

    I've seen both done, but I find for this kind of collar, the circles seem to work better.

  3. Suburbia | | #3

    I'm grateful for the detailed procedure. Thank you, Professor King!

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