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The Tailored Jacket: How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 2

In Part 1 of this tailoring series, I showed you how to sew a surgeon’s cuff. Unlike traditonal cuffs often found on tailored jackets, a surgeon’s cuff features working buttons and buttonholes. I’ll demonstrate how to add a lining to a sleeve with a surgeon’s cuff. If this process looks familiar, it closely tracks a tutorial I previously shared where I illustrated how to reline a jacket sleeve.

More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King:

more on tailoringHow to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1
How to Make a Tailored Collar
How to Replace a Sleeve Lining
How to Make a Perfect Notched Lapel
Eliminate Buildup in Your Seam Allowances
How to Sew a Catch Stitch

I chose to cover the lining pieces in this tutorial to eliminate confusion.

To make the upper sleeve lining pattern, measure up from the jacket sleeve pattern hem allowance by 3/4 inch, and draw a line straight across. On the jacket undersleeve, do the same thing. Trace out the lining pieces.

add sleeve lining 1

Here are the ready-to-construct lining pieces. Cut out the sleeve and lining pieces.

add sleeve lining 2

Sew both seams on the sleeve lining, stopping the stitching at the vent opening on the back sleeve seam.

add sleeve lining 3

Clip to the stitching on the vent’s underlap side.

add sleeve lining 4

Press the seam open above the vent.

Press the hem up 3/8 inch.


add sleeve lining 5

Press the underlap edge under 1/4 inch.

add sleeve lining 6

Pin the lining to the sleeve hem allowance starting with the underlap side. Work down along the underlap and around the cuff, until you reach the edge of the underlap. Fell-stitch this in place.

add sleeve lining 7

Draw foldlines with chalk on the lining for the overlap. The finished folds should clear the ends of the buttonholes.

add sleeve lining 8

Trim the excess, leaving 1/2 inch to turn under for the finish.

add sleeve lining 9

Clip the corner.

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