The Tailored Jacket: How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1
Generally, the cuffs found on tailored jackets are decorative, not functional. There is something appealing about having working cuff buttons on a tailored jacket. I’ll show you how to create this practical cuff detail.
Here’s a bit of trivia: A cuff with working buttonholes is called a surgeon’s cuff.
“Savile Row was inhabited largely by surgeons before the tailors moved in during the 19th century, and their influence can be seen in the ‘surgeon’s cuff.’ On the most expensive suits the cuff buttons, which mirror the pips of military rank, can be undone, allowing the sleeve to be rolled back. This let surgeons attend patients spouting blood without removing their coats-an important distinction that set them apart from shirt-sleeved tradesmen of the lower orders.”
Now you know.
More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King:
The technique begins with the pattern. The height of the vent is “to taste,” depending on the number of buttons you want to use.
On the undersleeve, the hem allowance is 1-1/2 inches deep, and the vent underlap is 2 inches wide. Add these to the pattern, as shown.
The upper sleeve is handled differently.
Draft a 1-1/2-inch hem allowance above the cuff line. Then, draft a 2-inch-wide cuff facing, as shown.
The dotted line will represent the finished facing.
Fold the paper on the cuff line, and trace out the dotted area.
Next, unfold the paper to reveal the cuff facing for the upper sleeve.
Sew the front seam on the sleeve, and press it open. The thread basting represents the finished cuff foldline.
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