Threads author Daryl Lancaster demonstrates how to apply a lightweight and bulk-free seam finish, using bias-cut nylon tricot binding.

The binding strips are made of 15-denier nylon tricot, a filmy knit with slight stretch that enables the binding to curve easily around shaped edges. Learn to cut the bias strips in Daryl’s video “Tips for Cutting Bias Strips.” For this binding technique, cut the strips 1 1/4 inches wide.

Attach the binding

To apply the binding, first determine which way the strip curls. Pull it gently and you’ll see that it cups to one side. That side is placed against the fabric. You can sew the binding to the fabric edge with a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag. A helpful tip is to set your sewing machine to stop automatically with the needle down. This secures the fabric and binding layers as you adjust the binding every 3 inches to 4 inches during the stitching process.

Ease curved edges

One of the benefits of the bias tricot binding is that it stretches, so you can pull it slightly as you sew it to curved hem edges, and it eases the allowance. This makes it easier to press the hem allowance under along the curve. Daryl uses this technique for rounded shirttail hems. She cautions that you should set the iron for pressing wool, and use steam and a press cloth, to prevent melting the sheer nylon tricot binding.