A peplum is a short, skirt-like extension on a jacket, blouse, coat, dress, or even a belt. Because it usually flares at the hip, it creates the illusion of a smaller waist. For the most flattering effect, the peplum needs the right amount of fullness to create a flattering line, from a modest A-line to much fuller, depending on your shape. You’ll want to experiment on a test garment.

When you’re planning a peplum, consider the fabric’s drape. Fabrics with drape require more fullness to hang attractively, whereas fabrics with more body stand away from the figure.

The modifications shown can be adapted for many garment styles and are just a few of the peplum possibilities.

Begin with a circle

Most peplum patterns are based on a partial or full circle, similar to a circle skirt. When the shorter waistline edge is sewn, the longer hemline flares. The greater the difference between the waist and hem circumferences, the greater the flare when the smaller waistline circle is sewn to the bodice. The pattern manipulations demonstrated start with a gore pattern that’s one eighth of a circle; four gores join to create a half-circle peplum.

You can expand the original four-gore pattern at the hem edge to create peplums with greater flare. For example, double the flare by turning the half-circle into a full circle. The waistline length remains the same, but the peplum is twice as full. This basic principle can be used to create an almost infinite variety of peplum silhouettes, from subtle to ultrafull.

---

Change the fullness of the peplum

Download a basic peplum gore pattern here.  Then follow these guidelines…