Unlined Knit Jacket

EllieandMac.com

Skill Level:

The instructions are geared to a beginning sewer, but the sewing skills required are intermediate. Accuracy is a challenge with the 3/8-inch-wide seam allowances, especially following curved edges.

Size Range and Fitting:

Sized XXS to 8XL for busts 29 inches to 70 inches, waists 23-1/2 inches to 66 inches and hips 33-1/2 inches to 75 inches. This pattern was drafted for women who are 5 feet 5 inches tall and follows the company’s self-described Curvy Fit Size Chart. The pattern does not list finished garment measurements.

Fabrics:

Use sturdy, weighty knits with good recovery and a minimum horizontal stretch of 30 percent, such as ponte di Roma, scuba, scuba crepe, brushed French terry, and heavy cotton/spandex.

Style and Sewing Details:

This unstructured design does not include a lining. It does not have deep hems, nor ease at the sleeve cap, but because it is designed for knits, the ease is not critical. The design does include a notched collar with turned-back lapels, an optional double button closure, patch pockets with optional flaps, a cut-away or straight-across front hem, one-piece sleeves, and back waist darts.

• There are few match points. Those on the sleeve distinguish the front of the sleeve from the back.
• The sewing instructions are thorough, easy to understand, and detailed. A photo accompanies each step. There are a sewing glossary, extensive supply list, and links to online tutorials and YouTube videos. See “Wear-Anywhere Knit Blazer,” for additional tips.
• The pressing direction for the side seam and sleeve underarm seam allowances is missing. A photograph shows the side seam allowances pressed toward the front.
• When making a muslin, use a knit to assess this design.
• Consider the pocket proportion. Although the pocket placement moves as the pattern size increases, the pocket size remains the same for all the sizes, XXS to 8XL.
• When using a serger, fabric is trimmed to get a clean edge. This is not possible with a 3/8-inch-wide seam allowance.
• Enhancements could include adding embroidery on the front or over a shoulder, topstitching with novelty threads, or patchwork embellishment in various areas. Choose interesting buttons for the closure, or make a different pocket shape, with a reshaped pocket flap or no pocket flap at all.

This review was originally published in Threads #221, Spring 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Cassandra Bernier.