Cozy Zip-Up Jacket
A moderately difficult undertaking depending on fabric choice. It is more challenging to sew in shearling or faux fur, less so in coating fabric. The traditional tailoring techniques make it a time-consuming but worthwhile project.
Size Range and Fitting:
European sizes 34 to 52 to fit busts 31-1/2 inches to 45-3/4 inches and waists 23-5/8 inches to 37-7/8 inches. All sizes are available in four height options: 1 (5 feet, 1 inch to 5 feet, 3 inches), 2 (5 feet, 4 inches to 5 feet, 6 inches), 3 (5 feet, 7 inches to 5 feet, 9 inches), and 4 (5 feet, 10 inches to 6 feet, 1 inch). Each pattern size/height is sold separately.
Use midweight, nonstretch coating fabrics with body, such as leather, suede, wool (tweeds and traditional coatings), bouclé, faux fur, or fleece.
Style and Sewing Details:
The high-hip-length, lined jacket has a broad, rounded collar with a separate stand. The zipper is backed by a decorative quilted shield. The slightly flared two-piece sleeves are intentionally long and meant to partially cover the hands.
- The jacket has front shoulder darts and side-front pockets concealed within waistline darts.
- Two small darts at the back hemline rein in the volume at the hip.
- The collar and stand are fully interfaced, the hems partially, and the darts legs and most seams are stabilized with fusible, bias-cut stay tape.
- The 52 pages of instructions are well written. They contain helpful extras, such as a detailed section on fitting, extensive steps on attaching the collar, and advice for working with faux fur.
- Every step of the sewing process is accompanied by a close-up photo.
- Our tester suggested embroidering all over the collar and, for versatility, making the collar removable.
- Read the instructions carefully. Break down the process into manageable steps to accomplish in each sewing session.
This review was originally published in Threads #223, Fall 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.
Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Kelly Keenan.