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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: Grainline Studio Thayer Jacket 16005

Threads #224, Winter 2023
Tested by Samina Mirza, Katy, Texas. Sewn by Sarah McFarland. Fabric: original Threads print on lightweight cotton twill, threads_magazine on Spoonflower.com

Cute Chore Jacket


Skill Level:

This jacket is easy enough to assemble, but some skill is needed to make it in thicker fabrics.

Size Range and Fitting:

Sized in two ranges, 0 to 18 and 14 to 30, for busts 32 inches to 56 inches, waists 25 inches to 49 inches, and hips 35 inches to 59 inches It is hip-length with a slightly flared silhouette. The design has plenty of ease to wear over garment layers and accommodate bulky lining fabrics.


The recommended textiles are medium- to heavyweight corduroy, denim, and canvas. Flannel or shearling is suggested for the body lining and upper collar, and quilted lining for the sleeves. These are great choices for a warm result.

Style and Sewing Details:

This cozy, workwear-inspired jacket evokes a walk in the woods. The utility aesthetic is popular and appropriate for daytime events everywhere.

close up of pocket on utility jacket

  • It has front and back yokes, four pockets, a center-back seam, two-piece sleeves, a convertible rolled collar with a separate back stand, and double topstitching throughout. The focal point is the unusual construction of the upper in-seam breast pockets. They feature a buttonhole integrated into the vertical bodice seam. Finishing the look are large patch hip pockets with slanted openings.
  • The jacket is lined to the center-front edge, thus eliminating the need for a separate facing. The same lining is used for the upper collar, while the sleeves are lined with quilted material.
  • Finished garment measurements are provided, including the biceps, which is helpful given the recommended fabrics. The quilted sleeve lining adds bulk, so compare the finished sleeve’s inner circumference to your biceps measurement.
  • In Step 15, the topstitching of the underarm seam from the sleeve hem to the jacket hem is difficult given the sleeve’s circumference. Consider skipping this topstitching altogether or topstitch only the side seams on the jacket.
  • Consider interfacing the buttonhole placement area, along the jacket’s right front edge.

This review was originally published in Threads #224, Winter 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Kelly Keenan.


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