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Changing “jeans” fit to “slacks” fit

RobinL | Posted in Fitting on

Hi, I’m new to this forum specifically to ask this question of all you experts. After much effort, I have finally come up with a traditional blue jeans pattern that fits my voluptuous <grin> figure perfectly, as jeans do – snug all around belly and butt, close fitting in the crotch, straight legs, etc. I’ve made them several times in denim and in stretch twill, and they are great. Note both of these fabrics have some give.
However, making them in a fabric with absolutely no stretch to it doesn’t work. They go on fine and stand up fine, but pinch and bind around the thighs upon sitting.
I’m interested in adapting the casual pattern to a more formal slacks pattern and want it to fit much the same in the body portion. But as I’m most likely to be using fabrics with no stretch – what can be done (to the legs?) to make them “sit” better? Any suggestions? I tried going with a real slacks pattern, pleats in front and all that, but that style really doesn’t work well on my body, even after getting it to fit well.

Replies

  1. suesew | | #1

    You obviously need to add ease. And you only have the four seams to do it on. I'd add a half inch on all sides and try it out of stash fabric (they don't have to be full length) to see where you now have too much or still too little. If you have a great jeans pattern you've already solved one of life's little problems!

    1. RobinL | | #2

      Thanks, Sue. Would you add the ease all over or just in the leg area? I really do want them to continue fitting in the waist-to-crotch area as they do now.

  2. ElonaM | | #3

    Ouch, this will be difficult-to-impossible, I fear. For one thing, the draft of jeans vs trousers is tremendously different: The heart of a pants pattern, so to speak, is the crotch curve. Lay out your jeans pattern and a basic trou pattern side by side, and you will notice that the front and back crotch seams of the jeans are very slanted, compared to those of the trouser pattern. That's because in jeans those biased seams act kind of like darts to provide a close fit where you like it in jeans. Radically altering the shape of the crotch curve will provide you some interesting design challenges, my dear.

    I'd suggest trying a slim-fitting trouser pattern from either Burda or Neue Mode, unless you're experienced at drafting.

  3. suesew | | #4

    I would actually add the ease all over because I would want it all over. By cutting it larger you are giving yourself more fitting options. And it may well take more than a little extra in the crotch area.

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