Cutting bands for the front of a jacket
Editor_Anne
| Posted in Fashion & Design on
I bought a pattern for a simple, loose-fitting, unlined jacket that has a three-inch band running up one side, around the back of the neck, and down the other side (Vogue 1493).
The pattern calls for the band to be cut on the crosswise grain. It seems to me it should be cut on the bias, so it will lie flat around my neck.
Does anyone have any wisdom about this to share?
Many thanks.
Replies
The crosswise grain would help keep the neckline from stretching out. The band will stand up around your neck.
Happy sewing!
Marsha
Oh! That makes sense. Thanks, Marsha!
Anne
You bring up a great point about cutting the band on the crosswise grain versus the bias. This is especially relevant if you're working with leather or a similar material for your jacket.
In general, cutting on the bias is often preferred for pieces that need to drape smoothly around curves, such as necklines, because the bias allows for more flexibility and can help the material lay flatter. This might be particularly useful if the pattern’s band doesn’t seem to conform well around the neck when cut on the crosswise grain.
The decision can be a bit different for leather jackets. Leather tends to be less forgiving than fabric when it comes to changes in grain direction, so it’s important to consider how the material will behave. Cutting on the bias might help with the drape and fit around the neck, but it could also affect the leather’s stability and appearance.
If you’re finding that the crosswise grain isn’t giving you the result you’re looking for, experimenting with cutting the band on the bias could be a good idea. Just be aware of how the leather might change in terms of stretch and structure. If you decide to try it, I’d love to hear how it turns out and if it improves the fit or drape around the neck!