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JMH3309 | Posted in Fitting on

I am making a dress and need to take it in at the princess seam.  Not sure the best way to take it in…Do I take the same amount off on each panel?  Anyone know the best way?


  1. HelgaPataki | | #1

    altering princess seams

    you have to adjust it where it doesn't fit.  if you take it off all over, the  bust might be too tight.  this depends on how many panels comprises your dress.  The more panels there are, the more accurate the fit.  Make sure that the adjustment tapers well with the rest of the dress to allow for a smooth seam. A dressform is helpful.  if you already finished the dress, trying it on is better. 

    1. JMH3309 | | #2

      Thank you for responding Helga! There are three panels on the front of the dress.  The first panel does not need to be touched (it is down CF).  The second and third pannels are connected by the princess seam.  When I draped it on my dressform it fits perfectly but my bust is smaller than my dressforn so I need to take it in at the princess seam.  I just want to make sure that a good way to do that is to take 1/2" off on each of the two pannels, instead of just taking it off of one.  Let me know what you think!! Thank you for all your help!

      1. HelgaPataki | | #3

        adjusting fit, princess seams

        hi JMH33309,

        I know that there is work involved and with precision as well. You need a gradual taper working towards perhaps a major change and then towards another gradual taper all within one side of the seam.  When I tapered mine, I wear a T shirt or something underneath first before I try it on so that my finished garment won't be too tight.  an example of adjusting a bustline that is not too full in the pectoral region, plus achieving a small abdomen and narrow waist is to begin the  basting gradually.  Sometimes the middle panel might not need adjusting where as the immediate side panels sewn to this piece would, or vis=a=versa. (the indicator is predetermined by your bust cup size but this is only formula and not people math, the real indicator is your personal fit. ) The two ends of you adjustment  might begin way higher and lower than one would expect and the distance to the actual adjustments might be quite long.  ie you might need to have an adjustment line that is 1-2 mm only fo perhaps a traveling distance of about 5 cm.  you are in fact creating your own fittable/wearable dressform in a version of a dress with the aim of having smooth seams. for dresses with princess seams, the end result is a dress that is identical to the ower with the additional ease allowance so you can move when you are wearing it.  Hope this makes sense.  in short, everybody needs their adjustments differently and with different panels and in combination.  If you don't need tp adjust both corresponding panels, it means you are not narrowing that pattern piece but making sure that the corresponding original panel seam fits into the adjusted panel smoothly.  I know Im repetitious and probably confused you, but go slowly and don't trim or cut away  until the end result is how you want it. actually if it is possible to maintain a wider sean and have the undersides tacked down, your garment as an end result will look smoother at the seams.  this will eliminate bulkiness along the seam.  have fun.  Attempt to have this garment last you a lifetime.  its worth all the effort.  go for it.

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