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Eliminating darts

sewdancer | Posted in Fitting on

What is the best way to eliminate darts, in a pattern, when switching from a woven fabric to a knit?

Replies

  1. starzoe | | #1

    Contrary to the fact that you never see darts in
    rtw knitted t-shirts, not everyone can wear undarted knit tops without attracting unwanted distortion of the fabric. If the wearer has anything but a minimal bust, the front will pull up and not hang properly. I always add darts to t-shirts I make, they fit so much better.

    However, to remove a bust dart, move the dart to the waistline and redraw the side seams.



    Edited 7/9/2009 12:03 pm ET by starzoe

  2. User avater
    ThreadKoe | | #2

    This is an it depends answer. It depends on the cup size. If you are a B or under, just change the dart into ease, and gently ease the dart or gather it into the side seam. If you are over that, combine what was suggested by the other poster, and remove some of the fullness to an open dart at the waist, or ease a dart at the waist and at the side seam. This will keep the shaping in the area where it is needed for fit, but is very gentle shaping. You can always just make the dart as well. Cathy
    As a wrap dress has similarities to a surplice top you might find this helpful as well. https://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4730/a-figure-flattering-tee
    Issue #65 also has a great article on fitting Tshirts by Marcy Tilton that you might find useful. Hope this helps. C



    Edited 7/9/2009 12:43 pm ET by ThreadKoe

  3. jjgg | | #3

    Depending on the pattern, there may be many other things that should be changed from a woven to a knit in the pattern. This also depends on the ease that you want. Wovens generally have more ease built in that knits due to the stretch factor.

    What pattern is it you are doing this to?

    1. sewdancer | | #4

      Thanks for your reply. This is an out-of-print Vogue pattern #8443. I am making it out of spandex and don't need much ease.

      1. Ceeayche | | #5

        Assuming this is the correct pattern:  http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8443.htm?search=#8443&page=1

        As for alterations for fabric with spandex. I'm "blessed" well above C, so I'd leave the waist darts in-- spandex or not-- and move the ease in the top darts into the waist ones so it will gently smooth over the girls rather than mash them into the uniboob.  I'd use an invisible zipper in the back and construct it using the stretch stitch. And, assuming this is for dancing, I'd fit it close, but not too close to be restrictive and I'd make sure it wasn't pulling across the back.

        Please post the final so we can see!

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