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Fit standard for sleeves

solosmocker | Posted in Fitting on

It has been a very long time since I have sewn anything at all with raglan sleeves. I can’t even remember when but it was long ago. My current project has raglan sleeves. I did a muslin and am comfortable with the fit for all but the sleeves. The reason being I could not remember what sort of fit standard would apply. The shoulders seem smooth, the torso fits well, but there is a “pleat” sort of from the underarm pointing to the shoulder line. Isn’t this unavoidable and the way its supposed to be? Can someone refresh my much faded memory on this topic? Thanks,

solo

Replies

  1. SAAM | | #1

    Hi Solo, I'm glad you're feeling better. The Sewing Diva's website has and article on adjusting raglan sleeves to eliminate diagonal wrinkles by adding height to the sleeve cap. I'm not sure if this is your problem, but maybe the article will help.

    http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/01/19/raglan-sleeve-cap-heightalteration-tutorial/

    Good luck getting it sorted out.

    Sherry



    Edited 2/29/2008 1:39 am ET by SAAM

    1. solosmocker | | #2

      thanks, Sherry. The jacket is all completed except for facings and buttons. Once it was put together I thought it fit very nicely and the bunch of fabric that was there prior to connecting my left and right halves seemed to fall into place and disappear. I am off to check out that post on the Diva blog. I do remember reading that one but didn't think to check it. Thanks for the heads up. solo

      1. SAAM | | #3

        I'm so glad it worked out. Did you make any adjustments before you completed the sleeves? It's interesting how often it seems like things aren't working and then when you get them all together the problem you thought you had turns out not to be a problem at all. Right now my sewing has come to a screeching halt. My thirty year old Singer decided to start making awful noises and the feed dogs quit. I need to take it in to see what, if anything can be done. In the meantime, I'm going to try to get some pictures taken of my recent projects to post. I'd love to see a picture of your project when it's done. Is it a blouse? Jacket? Inquiring minds want to know! :)Sherry

        1. solosmocker | | #4

          I am so sorry your machine is "not feeling well." I think you probably more than deserve a new one but we do get attached, don't we? Hope you are back to sewing again soon. My garment is a jacket. I made a muslin and there seemed to be excess fabric in the armpit area. My muslin was just that, made out of a soft old bed sheet. On my jacket I followed my instinct and added in another inch around the bust. I think that and the heavier weight of my fabric made it work out well. The fabric is a matelasse bedspread, really! and I love it. Its a great weight and very comfortable. I hope to get pictures on but we live in the middle of nowhere and I left my digital camera at DD's in Mass., 4 states south. We will be back there in a couple of weeks and then it will be pictures galore. The projects are ling up for the camera. solo

          1. SAAM | | #5

            Perhaps there was enough height in your sleeve for a jacket/coat weight fabric but your muslin just didn't have enough body to hold its shape, causing it to fold. I'm glad your jacket worked out well and am looking forward to seeing your pictures.I am very attached to my old Singer. My eldest daughter has a machine and has offered to let me use it until mine is fixed or I get a new one. I really am spoiled, though. I know how everything works on my machine and hers is quite different. The thought of sewing with her instruction manual by my side is off-putting. Though if I end up getting a new machine, I guess that is what I will be doing anyway. :) While my machine is "at the doctor's" I'm working on fitting a dress pattern so I think I'll just stick to hand-basting with that.Sherry

          2. jjgg | | #6

            Solo,
            You hit in on the nail. A very soft old bed sheet is not a good choice for a muslin for a jacket, a heavy dose of spray starch may have improved the hand of it a bit. But you do need to have a similar weight fabric for your muslin.I made a button down shirt in rayon, it fit beautifully I then made the same pattern in a cotton shirting- It didn't fit the same because the drape of the rayon is so different from the cotton.

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