I am having trouble fitting a Burda jacket with princess seams. According to the measurement chart I am a size 12 for waist and hips and size 14 for bust. Since I wear a D-cup I decided to cut the pattern in size 12 and enlarge the bust area. I did the enlargement by adding 1 cm at the bust point on the side front pattern piece and lenthening the front center piece 1 cm at the same spot. (I read this was how you were supposed to do it somewhere.) Then I made a test garment. The result was bad. The front center pieces don’t hang straight! Instead the bottom parts are wide apart. When I bring them together, as if in buttoning the jacket, there is a bubble in the front very close below the bust. Very uggly. How should I have done the modifications??? The side front pieces seem to fit okay.
A secondary problem is that I get vertical bubbles of cloth starting above the bust ending close to the shoulder seam. The bubbles are close to the armcy. I have this problem also when I make other garments. What kind of change do I need to make?