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Front crease on pants

Kelco | Posted in Fitting on

I have been working on a pants pattern and have pretty much gotten it to fit.  There is one problem that I can’t seem to figure out, though.  It’s the crease on the front.  It seems to go straight down the front of my leg until about mid-calf and then it starts to turn inward on my right leg.  RTW pants do the same thing.  I read in one of my fitting books that it could be due to a full/high hip and to adjust it in that area.  I tried cutting it fuller, pulling it higher, etc.  By doing so it does help move the crease to the correct spot, but then it throws the back leg off.  The left leg is only slightly off and I can live with that.  Any suggestions? 

Replies

  1. rekha | | #1

    Or the fabric was not aligned with the grain

    1. lilah | | #2

      Maybe the fabric was pulled to fit front leg to back.

      1. lbbray | | #3

        On a new pattern, before I put my pants together, I lightly mark where the crease should be or even lightly press.  Then baste/pin and try on.  See if that helps.  And, some pant styles just seem to cry out for no crease at all.

  2. DONNAKAYE | | #4

    Are there any drag lines?  If so, where are they starting at and where are they pointing to?

  3. mem | | #5

    I wonder if you have an externally rotated tibia ?? Do you have problems with your knees or feet??

    1. Kelco | | #6

      Thank you, everyone, for your replies.  I've been away from my computer for a few days and didn't get a chance to read your suggestions.  As far as I know, I don't have anything out of the ordinary with my feet or knees, but that's an interesting idea.  I think the problem is somewhere below the crotch line, because if I pull the pants up just a little in the front and back at that point, it seems to make it better.  But I don't see how it would help if I made that adjustment on my pattern; it just seems like it would shorten the leg.  I do have instructions for doing a "fisheye" kind of tuck on the pattern, but I haven't tried that yet.  Thanks again for all your suggestions.  I appreciate your help. 

      1. HeartFire2 | | #7

        If doing that correction (taking the fisheye dart) makes them hang better, but shortens the leg, add a bit a the hem to compensate!

        Edited 8/10/2006 10:39 pm ET by HeartFire2

  4. mem | | #8

    You know the fact that it only hapeens on the right and it happens on ready to wear as well as the ones you have made makes me wonder if you have an assymetry in your dear body ?

    1. Kelco | | #9

      Hmmmm, well, let's just say that I have reached that certain age where I have a little more fluff on one side than the other, so I'm pretty sure that has something to do with it.  But it's almost like I need to cut the one front section different than the other because if I just allow a little extra at the hip or pull it up to make the crease straight, then it throws the back off on that leg.  The top half of me is a whole other story--narrow back, short waist, one sloping shoulder--sheesh, I need like three different sizes in order to make anything.  I've been sewing since I was a teenager and made most of my and my kids' clothes, but kinda quit doing that for many years.  Since going back to it, I can certainly see that my body shape has changed.  Very frustrating...

      1. mem | | #10

        You need a good fit book . The Palmer Pletch one is VERY good and the just settle down and make yourelf the perfect pattern by altering one . You will have to do it for each side but think how good you will feel to finally have one that REALLY fits . PP have a fit book which is just for pants as well as a another for everything else.

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