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bcool | Posted in Fitting on

Scooped necks and convertible collar necks ride up on me.  Soon the neck line is at my throat in the front and I’m tugging, tugging – vowing to never wear ir again.  But not all of them!!  Does any one know how I can alter for this?  Does the shoulder seam need to come foreward?  Is it lack of a yoke?  Armhole too small?  I don’t have spinal deformity nor am I of an unusual build.  Even some of my baggy scrub tops try to crawl over my head.  Some jackets do this, too.  I want to make a upholestry patchwork loose fitting jacket and I don’t want to be disappointed by the pockets riding up to my armpits!  Any suggestions out there would be appreciated.   bcool


  1. rekha | | #1

    >>the neck line is at my throat

    From what I have read in Sandra Betzina's book is that you, like me, have a forward-thrusting neck. Her advice is to drop the front neckline ¼ to ½". Hope this helps. 

  2. ElonaM | | #2

    When you wear the garments in question, if you look at your side view and find that the shoulder seam is resting more towards your back than centered on your actual shoulders, then, yes, you should move the shoulder seams forward, because you have relatively forward-thrust shoulders.

    A common way to do this is just to cut 1/4" to 1/2" off the front pattern piece at the shoulder and tape it to the back pattern piece at the shoulder. One seamstress I know of makes a full 7/8" alteration this way! This will probably work fine for casual clothes, although it is not the classic alteration, which involves pivoting the shoulder seam forward only out at the shoulder point, leaving it in place at the neck.

    1. bcool | | #5

      Oh, thank you all for replying!!  Sounds like you all have basically the same technique.  And I'll gladly give it a try. 

      when I move the shoulder seam foreward, do I match the sleeve dot at the original place or move it foreward also? Seems like I'll be short on fabric on the back of the sleeve if I move it foreward too....    thanks soooo much.    Brenda   

      1. SewNancy | | #6

        I just match the existing dot on sleeve to new seam line. 


  3. mem1 | | #3

    I agree with Elona . There is actually and article in the Threads online articles which talks about the alterartions needed to make well fitting T shirts it is very useful and I have found cutting some off the front shoulder seam and adding the same amount onto the back seam works very well for me .

  4. msm | | #4

    when this happens to me it's usually because there's a snugness somewhere caused by raising my arms. sometimes the top wants to creep over my bust where i narrow again. the above suggestions sound good but if they don't work, also consider adding a little width in the back around the shoulder blades (which is the same as the suggestion to add to the back armhole edge), add a little width to the maximum area of your bustliine, or check the sleeves. even as far down as the elbows may need more room to keep from tugging the fabric up over your bust.

    Edited 2/24/2005 12:58 pm ET by MSM

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