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How to size a gusset?

KharminJ | Posted in Fitting on

Greetings, All!I’m in the process of drafting/draping a man’s Mongolian del – it’s a loose jacket with a front overlap – and want to reduce the bulky fabric in the underarm area by adding a gusset. Does anyone know of a formula or process to figure out how big to make the gusset, and how to change the underarm seams? Going looking for good illustrations of the garment now… Thanks for any and all suggestions! Kharmin


  1. KharminJ | | #1

    Okay, these are links because I don't own the photos ~





    I have a pattern, but the fellow it's for is very large, and I truly fear running out of fabric! Thus, the desire for gussets instead of the traditional deep armholes.

    Playing with the muslin this evening - any discoveries will be shared!


    1. Palady | | #2

      There be some URL's on the following Google page which might be of value.  The second has different designs.  Which I found of interest because in all my years, I used but the bias cut diamond shape.

      It'l lbe interesting to read how you proceed.



      ETA - missd including the URL


      Edited 3/2/2009 12:24 am ET by Palady

      1. KharminJ | | #4

        Thank you so much for doing that research! I've only looked at a few pages so far, and found very good info on doing the sewing, not so much (yet) on figuring out the actual size and shape of the gusset. I'll let you all know if I find some sort of formula!My sister, who has been a costumer for years, suggests using the "kite-shaped" piece, (like Tempus does) with the long end going up the arm and the short point into the body. This makes sense, but I haven't cut one out yet - been on the computer! Garrhhh!Blessings and Happy March! Kharmin

        Edited 3/2/2009 2:31 pm by KharminJ

      2. Cityoflostsouls | | #5

        You just may know what I'm talking about! Years ago I made an infants dress from a pattern I borrowed from a friend.  I returned it but unfortunately she is not the packrat that I am and didn't keep it.  It seemed to have a tiny pleated gusset under each arm.  It was beautiful.  Could it have been a gusset or just underarm pleats?  I adored that baby dress and made it of a beautiful soft white fabric.  I've never seen one like it since.

        1. Palady | | #6

          >> ...  made an infants dress...borrowed pattern ... seemed to have a tiny pleated gusset under each arm. ... <<

          Sad to say, it's unkown to me.   For now at least.  God's small miracles happen every day.   

          >> ... pack rat I am ... <<

          Many fall short of recognizing a true treasue when they have it in their hands.  Myself included because I've come to realize several significant pieces, patterns among them, have slipped away.

          I'll keep you in mind if it ever appears.


  2. starzoe | | #3

    I found something on designing gussets on page 357 of Adele Margolis' Design Your Own Dress Patterns.`There is a whole page on the topic using a kimono sleeve as a sample - I can't see why you can't use the same technique on a drop sleeve.If you want all the info, email me through my profile and I'll scan it and send it to you. If I can't get the book into the scanner, I can draw the few illustrations and type the rest for you.

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