Hi, this is my very first attempt to use a site like this, so please be kind 🙂
I have been trying to find out how to increase the bust size on a particular type of shirt. It’s like a lingerie top, with (essentially) 2 triangular pieces of fabric covering the breasts; they might overlap at the center or they might not, depending on the pattern. The horizontal seam that attaches the triangular pieces to the lower part (which goes around the ribs and waist) always lands on the full part of my breasts. That tells me that the vertical length is wrong, but I don’t know how to increase it so that it looks right. Anyone know the trick to this? Thank you for your suggestions.
Stacy
Replies
you will see on the pattern piece a cross which marks the bust point . It sounds as if yours is significantly lower than the patterns .You really need to do a full bust adjustment and I guess I would do it on the original bodice block and then remake my pattern or You could just make the straps longer if it fits around the cup of your breast ok.
I looked for the bust point mark, but not all patterns have one and this one doesn't. I know patterns are made for B cups and I'm a C, but I'm also small-boned, short, and narrow across the upper chest. Longer straps would bring the top down too far and that doesn't address the problem. I need to increase the cup size without making anything else on the top bigger. Thanks for the ideas though.
You need to buy the pattern for your upper chest measurement not that across the bust points and then do a full bust adustment. Do you have a book on pattern alterarions? If you do get a pattern front which is like the normal bodice block and mount a copy of your pattern piece onto it so that armskyes match etc and then do thefull bust pattern adustment on the whole thing and then you will be able to see where the alteration should be on your pattern piece . This is because the top you are trying to make is derived from the basic bodice block. It would be worth your buying" Fit for Every body " by Palmer Pletsch as this problem will reoccurr all the time particularly since you havea narrow chest and relatively full bustIts a very easy book to read and will really lift the quality of your fit. I bought mine from Amazon.
What I would try with a piece of muslin is to cut the triangular pieces, then slash them horozontally at the approximate bustpoint level. I would spread the pieces the amount you need to get the lower edges to fall correctly below your breast. Fill that space with some strips of muslin and smooth out your side cutting lines.
If you feel you need more coverage on the sides of the triangle, you can slash the pattern/muslin vertically and spread the amount needed. Fill with muslin (I just baste it in) and smooth your bottom cutting line.
Do the triangles have any darts or gathering at the bottom edge for shaping before they are attached to the rest of the garment? If they don't, you should put some in. The darts or gathering create the three-dimentionality you need for the fabric to lie smoothly over this rather curvy part of the body. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Hi, that was what I did. The top fits reasonably well, but I think the next time I might slash and spread more than an inch (which is what I did). I don't know why this sort of alteration is not included in any books or magazines that I've read- it's very helpful! Thank you.
Stacy
I'm so glad I could help. I think in the books they're so busy explaining how to cut and slash and add in extra tissue for more complex garments that they forget the 'simple' ones. Have you finished the garment? If not, good luck with it. It sounds like it's going to be really comfortable to wear.
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