I’m looking for help with fitting a vest on a client with a very large bustline (123.5m/48 3/4″). The vest has vertical darts from the hemline. When fitting a muslin, it was obvious that an armhole dart was needed in addition to the vertical dart. We also decided to contour the vertical dart (a la the article in Threads on S-shaped darts) and lower the bust point by 2 cm (3/4″). The armhole dart was to be pivoted into the waistline dart. I have done this many times before without a problem, so I was surprised to see a very pointed (and unflattering) dart tip on the finished garment. I was able to round it a bit by steaming the tip over the end of a ham, but it doesn’t completely solve the problem. I should mention that the garment is made in a silk/rayon chinese brocade with a lightweight fusible for the front pieces.
So what should I have done differently? In retrospect, perhaps this style is not best for this body type and she should have a design with the dart excess divided between several darts, or a princess seam. Since the dart tip points out beyond the body, should it be shortened more? The muslin didn’t indicate this, but…..Anyone have any ideas?