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Losing Sleep Over a Silly Gusset

sewcrazy1 | Posted in General Discussion on

I am new to posting and have never participated in a forum before. I posted a question the other day, but I must have done something wrong because there has been no response or I don’t know how to retrieve them. Copy pasted from original question:

“I have been sewing Vogue Pattern 8181 (view C pull on dress) and I cannot get the diamond gussets in the underarm of the sleeves. My corners work great at the seams but not at the slit corners. I am using a stretch knit and I’ve referred to all of my reference books and still can’t seem to get it in. Does anyone have a secret trick?”

I have put this project away because it’s a dress more suitable for Fall, but it just bugs me that I cannot get that diamond gusset in. It is one of those problems that you lay in bed at night trying to solve. I greatly appreciate any feedback – I look forward to my new cyber sewing forum.


  1. nmog | | #1

    I just went to http://www.patternreview.com and there are a bunch of comments about this pattern and its lovely gussets, so you're not alone! A number of people suggested sewing each side of the gusset individually (4 straight seams instead of 2 V-shaped ones). It might be the only way to deal with trickly corners on a stretch knit.

    Good luck!

  2. Pattiann42 | | #2

    You may not have gotten the responses you should have because at first thought, this is tricky.   

    I always go back and forth from Threads and PatternReview.  Both are excellent forums.

    I was going to suggest the same (I think) response as nmoq provided. 

    On the dress, fold under at the seam line and press.  On the seam line of the gusset, place a strip of narrow stick-on fusible.  Position the gusset to the dress & press in place.  When cool, open the seams &  stitch on the seam lines.

    Please give us a follow-up.  Happy sewing!





    Edited 6/7/2007 6:25 pm ET by spicegirl1

    1. sewcrazy1 | | #3

      Thank you for your suggestion - I am definitely going to try the tape - this may be the very trick I'm looking for. I'll let you know the results when I've tried it.

    2. sewcrazy1 | | #4

      How embarrassing - over a year later (I forgot to follow-up), the fusible tape worked like a charm. Many thanks, been sleeping like a baby ever since.

      1. Deeom | | #5

        what is a stick on fusible? 

        1. alotofstitches | | #6

          I'm not familiar with the pattern they posted about  but based on the info I bet it is the 1/4" self stick mending tape purchased in the notions.  You peel it off the roll to stick it down to the fabric, then peel off the paper backing to be able to stick another fabric to it.  In making the gusset they spoke about, the seams are very small and almost impossible to use pins but need to secure the 2 fabrics together so use fusible tape.

          1. [email protected] | | #7

            Some of them wash out, others need to be removed so some care is needed when buying.

          2. Deeom | | #8

            sounds interesting.  I'll have to check it out.  Thanks

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