Replies

1. 
   Knitnut | Jan 25, 2008 10:29pm | #1

   To add a 2nd request to this question on petite - I know how to make the adjustment for length in the bodice, skirt or pants, even sleeve length, but I do not know how to shorten the shoulder length.

   I have small shoulders and regular sized clothing hangs off my shoulders.  Ready to wear petite sizes fit my shoulders, but patterns are only marked for length adjustments.

   Everytime I shorten my shoulders I screw up my arm hole.  In the past, I have darted out the excess at the top of the shoulder front/back and that is ok with the bodice front/back, just the armhole is now off.

   If you can recommend a fitting site or book - I'd be most thankful.  Rekha - thanks for letting me piggyback onto your request.  Jackie

1. 
   rekha | Jan 25, 2008 10:46pm | #2

   Glad I'm not the only midget

1. 
   Knitnut | Jan 25, 2008 11:46pm | #3

   You can then appreciate this story- while travelling in NY, I came across a small town - artists/shops.

   There was a store called Out of Vietnam.  I stopped in and was adminiring all the beautiful handmade clothing.  A clerk urged me to try on a jacket - and I said OH NO - I can't imagine it would fit me - everything is always too long and too big in the shoulders.

   They looked at me like I was a weirdo - and still urged me to try it on. . while trying it on I looked back at the clerks in the mirror and realized they were JUST MY SIZE!  They were all Vietnamese and just the same size as me!  I almost laughed out loud.

   The jacket was a PERFECT fit - I brought home a black silk lined jacket with awesome embellishments for $50.  I should have bought more.  I need to find their website!

1. 
   rekha | Jan 26, 2008 12:05am | #5

   I find that interesting and I will tell you why.

   Some weeks ago I chanced upon the japanese style sewing forum. I then bought three books of patterns, one being Misses Style Book http://tamyu.net/vanilla/ (you can buy from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MRS-STYLEBOOK-2007-WINTER-Japanese-Dress-Making-Book_W0QQitemZ170180276344QQihZ007QQcategoryZ11801QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem )

   I should have guessed that being Asian, the body proportions were almost the same as mine and my daughter's.

   The patterns in the book are self-explanatory and if you have problems you could always ask the tamyu forum; you will not be disappointed

   Edited 1/25/2008 4:08 pm ET by rekha

1. 
   Knitnut | Jan 26, 2008 12:14am | #6

   Thank you for that info and link!  I never knew that such a thing existed.  I've got to get out more (or take more time off of work!).

2. 
   Tatsy | Jan 26, 2008 04:53pm | #9

   I've used various fixes over the years. Sometimes playing with a cheap, multi-size pattern gives you an idea of where best to take out extra fabric and what various adjustments will do to the grainline. I've found that most adjustments which work for me raise the underarm portion of the armscye significantly and eliminate a good portion of the sleeve cap. On some RTW I can get away with just serging out the excess. This also makes the sleeves short enough to be comfortable. Good luck.

1. 
   Knitnut | Jan 26, 2008 10:13pm | #10

   Thank you.  Great ideas.  Looks like I'll have to play around with this.  I'm always looking for the "answer".  It never works quite that way does it?

2. 
   zuwena | Jan 26, 2008 12:00am | #4

   check out Threads magazine, vol 101, pages 66-70 on pattern grading to see if it is of any help to you.  If you don't have the volume, I think I recall that it was highlighted and reprinted in one of the monthly newsletter's tips and tricks columns.

   I shall check further for any other information I can find.  Z

1. 
   rekha | Jan 26, 2008 12:03pm | #8

   Thanks Zuwena, I looked at the article. It seems a long-winded way of grading, but I will keep it ready at hand to refer to.

   I have writtin to Vogue as well to find out whether there are any simple guidelines one could follow.

3. 
   solosmocker | Jan 26, 2008 05:48am | #7

   I do what Sandra Betzina has written in either Power Sewing or More Pwer Sewing. Sorry I don't remember which. I am five feet tall. Midway between the bust level and the shoulder seam, I fold out a half inch on the horizontal. I do the same to the back bodice and the same to the sleeve cap above the notches. You will then need to drop down the armscye an equal amount unless you like a higher cut armhole, which personally I do. I think it adds length to the torso, but you don't want to be uncomfortable either! I do these alterations to all patterns I use, right out of the envelope. Then I proceed to do other alterations which are not a result of the petite issue. I love the difference this makes in my fit. Hope this helps. solo