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neckline stability–advanced fit Q

AndreaSews | Posted in Fitting on

Hi Everyone.  I’m working on Vogue 8280, which some have called the Galaxy Dress–I’m working on the straight/square neckline in the sleeveless version, and I’ve tinkered with the fit on a muslin and it’s coming along…  http://store.sewingtoday.com/cgi-bin/voguepatterns/shop.cgi?s.item.V8280=x&TI=20001&page=2

The neckline, which runs straight across the high-bust area, fits nice and smoothly–as long as I wear a good bra and I don’t move!!  I _just_ got the Threads e-newsletter today, with Susan Khalje’s timely article about boning.  It got me thinking….  Is this crazy?  I could apply one length of boning across the neckline, but couldn’t I get just the bit of added stability I need with a strip of buchram in the seam allowance, for example?  I’ll tell you the truth.  I only thought of this b/c there seemed to be a gap between the how-to description and the photos provided in the article, and I just didn’t “get it,” so I started to think about alternatives. 

Replies

  1. mem | | #1

    I would use the boning and investigate stays as they were often used in interesting necklines such as this.

  2. SewNancy | | #2

    Several years ago Khalje wrote an article about the different areas that boning could support, and the square neckline was one of them.
    Nancy

    1. AndreaSews | | #3

      epilogue--It's nice to hear how some of these things turn out, right?  I fiddled and fiddled with the pattern to take the straight-across neckline in a little bit more in the front without messing up the armscye--That was a feat, and I'd say I got it almost right.  The other thing I did was get measured and chose a push-up strapless bra.  That little extra upmh made all the difference.  It looked great. And I got away without the boneing.  In fact, I think if I make it again, I'll skip the boneing and just really concentrate on the fit under the arm.  It needed to be snug across the font, but not restricting movement in the armscye.  Tricky!

      1. mem | | #4

        what did you end up doing to the armscye ??

        1. AndreaSews | | #5

          A little hard to explain--if you follow that link above back to the picture of the design, you'll see the "flange" as it is called in the pattern, which makes up the front portion of the armscye.  The flange has all the curve you need to make the armscye, so after taking some of the excess out of the side seam to tighten it across the bust, I had to redraw the curve on the front piece to match the flange.  That part was only tricky b/c of the method they used to attach the lining.  I had to tear out a bunch of understitching to get it right. Looking back, I think the armscye was a touch snug not b/c of that part but b/c of adjustments I did in the back.   The upper back was baggy, vertically, so we needed to pinch it and take out a bunch of bulk, which extended right through the armscye.  It felt right at the time, but that was before the lining and finishing.  This alteration surprised me, b/c usually folks call me shortwaisted, and the bulk is near the waist, but this time it wa up between my shoulders.

          1. mem | | #6

            so it sounds as if you need to take a horizontal tuck from armscye to armscye to shorten the distance from the shoulder to the bust point and the equivalent on the back.??

          2. AndreaSews | | #7

            correct :)

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