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pants and the latest wrinkle

nisee | Posted in Fitting on

Hi, its Nisee. I have a new granddaughter and have not logged on in awhile. Now I have a few days to get back to a project. So, to my sewing question.  I am working on the Sandra Betzini flat front close fitting pant. Everything seem to work better than any pant I have made. I noticed on issue and cannot find it addressed anywhere in my library.  The pant fits close at the rear and I notice there is sort of a pleat where the tops of the legs join at the crotch well below the zipper.  I really did not notice it in the test pattern.  I tried on a similar ready made pant and see the same “fold over”.  I basted the seam a !/4″ deaper to eliminate the pleat but it made the pant to tight.   I thought about taking in the side seam but the pant  has the right ease for sitting and any smaller seams wrong.  Anyone have a suggestion or a clue to my error.  I really like everything else about the pant and want to use it again.   Thanks in advance!!


  1. SewNancy | | #1

    If you find the solution to this I'd love to know. I have this problem too and it is worst on lycra wovens, the more the lycra the worse the problem. I have tried everything and you are right, I cannot find it in any of my multitude of fitting books either

    Edited 10/9/2006 5:56 pm ET by SewNancy

    Edited 10/9/2006 5:57 pm ET by SewNancy

    1. nisee | | #2

      Not to be rude but I'm pretty sure if I bought a padded and lifted panty garment as is all the rage in underwear catalogues this might go away.  Really I think this is a flat seat problem.  My curve is just not there but I need the ease. Basting away the crease makes that area too tight.  Perhaps someone will read this and point me the way.  Thanks for the reply.

  2. Ralphetta | | #3

    I'm not sure I understand where the zipper is.  The "pleat" is in the front crotch?  Isn't there a rule that says something to the effect that the wrinkle points to the problem?  That's supposed to help you find the cause, isn't it?

    1. SewNancy | | #5

      It points to the crotch just below the zipper at cf. If the zip is elsewhere it is still the same. Yes, wrinkles are supposed to point to the problem, but I have tried every way to adjust the curve and still it happens. Its great to know that wrinkles point to the problem but what do you do to solve said problem!?

      1. Ralphetta | | #7

        If this is the same thing I have encountered it is because the intersection of the 4 seams in the crotch are in the wrong place.  There isn't much you can do after things are cut out.  In my case it is because the back  piece didn't extend forward enough...and the front piece is too long.  Reshaping the crotch doesn't do enough

        I found that Burda patterns were perfect for me because  the pant front meets the pant back farther forward in the crotch. The little extension that curves into the crotch is much longer on the pattern back, and barely there on the pattern front.  They fit beautifully.

        Sometimes in RTW, I can take the fronts apart from the back and remove the excess from the fronts ONLY.  You have to taper it down, removing some of the front thigh also.  Of course this doesn't work if the pant isn't a little too big.


        1. mazizmuse | | #15

          I agree-Though I draft my own patterns, it took years to figure out what this problem was related to, as my rear is no-J-Lo. 

          I took my back and front pant block-trued it at crotch point to several inches below. I recreated a new stitch line 2 1/2 " toward the front.  I drew a nice line from the new crotch point to mid thigh then Redrew the pattern.  The new front pattern looked strange at first because it lost almost all of it's origional curve...but the fit is fantastic...and it kept getting better as I tweaked the curve to accomodate my own figure. No more strange "peak" below the zipper (which I was so conscientious of before- after all ladies are not suppose to have THAT there...!)

          Remember to stabilize the new curve as the back pattern is now very curvy-I like to use a somewhat giving stabilizer-like a strip of bias fabric.

          I remember Burda pant patterns having similar looking front patterns...imagine-I could have simply copied their pattern and prevented a few grey hairs....



  3. User avater
    Becky-book | | #4

    Could the problem be that the center back seam is just a little too long for your flat derriere?  What happens to the 'pleat' if you shorten the center back at the waist? My back side is anything but flat so this is just a guess!

    Hope this helps,


    1. SewNancy | | #6

      Actually that made it worse, I took out body room in cb and had to put it back in. If you lengten cb it just makes a baggy seat.

    2. nisee | | #8

      Hi, All, I did alter the crotch length as per Betzini's instructions, this is her pant.  The front is perfect and the back is not as baggy as either ready made or others I have sewn.  To me, the pleat or foldover on CB seam would mean its to big in this area but taking that in looses the ease. You can't sit down.  I do have a flat seat and I keep trying to invision a different shape for that back seam.  More research is needed.  I've ordered some additional books recommended by people on this site.  Will update because I am planning the 2nd pair from this pattern.  Honestly the gray flannel with this problem look fabulous.  The foldover is so hidden in the back curve, well, it must be delt with but its not a total loss.  Thanks for your comments.

      1. Josefly | | #9

        This sounds like a great "fitting problem" to answer the "What is your greatest fitting problem" topic posted this afternoon.

        1. nisee | | #10

          Thank you, done.

      2. User avater
        Becky-book | | #11

        Your pleat is a vertical pleat? (I was thinking horizontal for some reason)

        I think Ralphetta has the solution for you, look at her answer about changing the inseam location.

        Hope you get it solved!


        Edited 10/11/2006 8:35 am ET by Becky-book

        1. SewNancy | | #12

          it is a verticle pleat and I have tried moving the inseam, obviously no to the right place.

          1. Teaf5 | | #13

            What happens if you tug up on the center back seam? For my flat seat, I have to dip the waistline an inch or so in the center back; otherwise, the whole back half of the pants droop down and forward.

          2. SewNancy | | #14

            The back is perfect, its the cf crotch where the pleat is.

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