Replies

1. 
   Becky-book | Aug 28, 2006 03:41pm | #1

   try this:

   tie a piece of 1/4 inch elastic around your waist at the level you want your waistband to sit.

   tuck the top edge of the skirt muslin (no waistband) under the elastic

   while looking in a full length mirror, adjust the top edge until the hem hangs even and the side seams hang perpendicular to the floor

   mark the top edge of the skirt at the edge of the elastic (this is new seam line, add seam allowances) use this info to change your pattern tissue.

   if the entire skirt is now too short, add length to all the pieces (either at the hem or at the markings for "lengthen here"

    

   hope this helps

   Becky

2. 
   Teaf5 | Aug 29, 2006 12:33am | #2

   Do you mean that 1) the hem of the skirt in higher in the back and/or 2) the skirt sits higher on your waistline? If it is 1), then you need to change the line of the waistline in the back, so that instead of scooping down, it peaks slightly in the center back of your waist. The waistline will sit straight, and the extra fabric along the center back seam will go over the roundedness.

   If the problem is 2) and the skirt is riding high above your waist, you need to add width through the waist and hips. If the skirt is too narrow there, it will ride up. With a 3/5 " problem, you may need to do both of these alterations or choose the next larger size to get a better fit.

3. 
   zuwena | Aug 29, 2006 06:49am | #3

   It sound like there may not be enough width in the skirt back to accommodate the derriere. You will need to know both your overall hip width (at the widest point, which may be anywhere between 8 and 11 inches below the waist) and that portion that represents the back only (in your situation it will be larger than the front width). Armed with the back width measurement you can adjust the width of the back pattern piece. If the waist is considerably smaller you will need to consider adding extra length and depth to the darts or adding an extra dart. The dart nearest the center back should be the longest by about an inch over the other darts. I do not recommend adding more than 3/4 to 1" to the side seam because it tend to throw off the grainline hang. Once you've done these things to the musling, then I would put in on and follow the earlier suggestion for tying a string around the waist with the muslin on to mark and determine the best place for waistband--both front and back (they may be different--sometimes a little lower in the back).
   Hope something I've said is helpful. Zuwena

4. 
   mem | Aug 30, 2006 08:03am | #4

   You basically need to add more length into you back skirt so that it can travel out over you but and down to the hem. The description of using the elastic is good . You will end with a skrt which will hang straight at the hem but will be longer at the center back than at the center front .The side seams will be the same front and back.Another way it slash your pattern from the side seam over to the center front seam but NOT through it and then open it up so that the hem will hang straightthe slash should be at hip level . .You should make a pattern out of some vielene and then get som help doing the opening up and sliding in a patch to fill in the 3 1/2 inch gap which will form across your skirts butt