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Pucker free seams

Stitchwitch | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m in the process of sewing a weddeing dress and because it has a train some of the seams are long and on the bias. How do I prevent puckering on these long bias seams? The dress fabric is silk and also some satin.

Replies

  1. ShannonG4d | | #1

    Bias seams are happiest if you use a small zigzag stitch to create them.  Make it about 2.0 mm long, and 1.5 in width.  The zigzag will allow the bias to move as it wants, and the narrow width will allow the seam to appear straight to the eye.

    Shannon

    1. Stitchwitch | | #3

      Thank you very much. This makes perfect sense. What about using the "stretch stitch" usually used for knits?

      1. ShannonG4d | | #4

        It depends on how your machine defines that stitch.  On some machines, it is a triple-back-zigzag, which would be too bulky in thread for your application.  If the stretch stitch is a simple angled zigzag, it should be okay.  Do test a sample on your fabric; you might need to make it a bit longer or wider to give your particular fabric room to stretch.

        Shannon

        1. Sancin | | #7

          I find that the triple back stitch is heavy on a number of fabrics. On looking at my failures I came to the conclusion that it simply uses too much thread, even for shirtweight fabric.

    2. Stitchwitch | | #5

      I have tried it and it WORKS. I used a SL of 2.0 and a SW of 1.0 on my Designer SE and I also used the 1/4" foot. It has a single hole and the zig zag is narrow enough not to cause any problems. The seams came out perfectly. Thank you. I used the same method for stitching French Seams in a very lightweight chiffon, only for the first row of stitching. It also worked like a charm.

      1. ShannonG4d | | #6

        Congratulations!  I'm glad it worked well:)

        Shannon

  2. damascusannie | | #2

    Can you reduce your presser foot pressure? Or a walking/even feed foot would help, too.

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