Hi,
I’m making a top which needs a square shoulder adjustment and a FBA as well as a forward shoulder adjustment. Does the forward shoulder adj. come in between the SqS and FBA or after FBA? I did a FSA before FBA on a different top and thought it distorted the FBA. I will be doing all my adjustments using Pivot and Slide methods. Any advice much appreciated! Thank you
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Get the angle of your shoulders right first.
Thank you!
After almost 50 years of teaching folks how to fitting sewing patterns, Pati Palmer has really refined fitting order. She starts with length: top of shoulder to bottom of armscye, and bottom of armscye to the waist, because a too-long bodice can affect all the other alterations. Next, she alters the upper back and shoulder, as these alterations can impact the position of the pattern (or muslin) across the bust. After all these alterations are done, she evaluates for the FBA. Since the FBA adds to the width of the bodice, she alters side seams and hips after the FBA, and finally checks for sway back/flat back/erect posture (a low back alteration.) In this manner, the alterations cascade down the body, and you don't do one alteration, then find that you have undone the previous one. Details in The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting.
Thank you,I have that book but just lost my way with fitting issue!
Maybe this fitting order sheet will help?
https://www.palmerpletsch.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/TissueFittingSequence-ThePalmerPletschCompleteGuidetoFit.pdf
In all honesty, I'm a Palmer/Pletsch instructor, and I don't follow this fitting order exactly. I actually do all the shoulder alterations (including forward shoulder) right after the upper back alterations, as I find it really helps orient the tissue or muslin over the bust.