I have three (3) questions on fitting, that I need answers to.
I know that there are ease considerations for circumference, are there
ease considerations for length, such as from the back of the base of the neck
If one has an ample bust line, how does one fit a surplice neckline or v-neck jacket (with or without lapels) neckline, so that there is no gap at the bust?
If one has a protruding abdomen, how does one fit a wrap or button front skirt so that it doesn’t “Fly apart” when walking or sitting?
I can only address the second question and am interested in the first and third myself.
Treat that diagonal front edge the way you would a sleeve you want to set in. Use the seam line that joins the interfacing or binding to ease stitch it, or add twill tape or clear elastic to the seam. Cut them very slightly shorter and pull taut as you stitch them to the seam. Any of these treatments should slightly curve and pull that edge just enough to hold it against you. If you get puckering or pleats you've eased too much. This type of "just enough" technique needs practicing to get that subtle difference and the measurements of extra layers just right.
For some fabrics simple stay stitching can make a difference in holding this bias edge from stretching out of shape.
Since my abdomen started protruding I've stayed away from skirts preferring the one color, one piece line of dresses to camouflage, rather than accentuate, the middle. You probably need to include some ease on the front under the waistband to allow extra room. A roomier cut skirt in general will allow more freedom of motion without straining against the sides and pulling the fabric outward. These are just common sense guesses as I have no experience with this.
In general, you don't have to add ease for length in most garments. Pants, however are a different story....you need to have lengthwise ease in the crotch area. The amount depends on your size. One of the books I have gives this as follows: crotch length 2.5-5 cm (1-2"), crotch depth 1.3 cm (1/2")-size 4-10, 2 cm (3/4")-size 12-16, 2.5 cm (1") or more-over size 18.
I'm not sure about the protruding abdomen part, but I find that RTW wrap skirts don't allow enough underlap, so it will fly open regardless of your size. When making patterns for wrap skirts I always make the underlap extend to the side seam. For a button front closure, you would add walking ease to the hemline. The amount would be dependent on the fabric and the length of the skirt, but for a knee length skirt, a good place to start would be about 3/8-1/2". Just add it at the hemline at the opening edge and angle it up to the waistline. This technique can also be used with box pleats that won't stay closed at the bottom.
Hope this helps.
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