How to Make a Banded Armscye
Threads Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam shares her technique for creating a banded armcye in this article from Threads #164 (December 2012/January 2013). If you seek a silhouette with a trim waist and fit arms, this gown is the illusion maker you're looking for. This clever armscye band fools the eye into seeing a narrower waist and slimmer arms. The inspiration dress has a jewel neckline that opens at the center back and a shirred center front, but you could change those style details. Learn how to adjust the pattern to make the armscye treatment shown, create the band, and sew it. This detail could be added to almost any sleeveless pattern.
Adjust the bodice pattern
Start with any sleeveless pattern. If the front pattern has a side-seam bust dart, rotate it to the front hem. Trace a copy of the front and back pattern pieces. Draw all changes on these patterns, and then trace copies of the smaller pieces that overlap.
1. On the front pattern, draw a new armscye from the shoulder seam edge to the side seam, ending 2 or 3 inches above the waist. Follow the original armscye for the top half, and straighten the curve as you extend its length, as shown. Add seam allowances to the new line. Repeat for the back armscye.