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Threads Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam shares her technique for creating a banded armcye in this article from Threads #164 (December 2012/January 2013). If you seek a silhouette with a trim waist and fit arms, this gown is the illusion maker you're looking for. This clever armscye band fools the eye into seeing a narrower waist and slimmer arms. The inspiration dress has a jewel neckline that opens at the center back and a shirred center front, but you could change those style details. Learn how to adjust the pattern to make the armscye treatment shown, create the band, and sew it. This detail could be added to almost any sleeveless pattern.

Adjust the bodice pattern

Start with any sleeveless pattern. If the front pattern has a side-seam bust dart, rotate it to the front hem. Trace a copy of the front and back pattern pieces. Draw all changes on these patterns, and then trace copies of the smaller pieces that overlap.

1. On the front pattern, draw a new armscye from the shoulder seam edge to the side seam, ending 2 or 3 inches above the waist. Follow the original armscye for the top half, and straighten the curve as you extend its length, as shown. Add seam allowances to the new line. Repeat for the back armscye.

judith neukam, senior technical editor
Posted on Oct 16th, 2012 in sewing, garment construction, how-to, sleeve, shoulder, armcye

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Comments (7)

freckles1 writes: I love the whole dress!!! What pattern is this based on??
Posted: 3:23 am on October 22nd

mjz writes: Judith, thank you for this. I've been looking for variations on big sleeves. This one is so very graceful.

Posted: 2:06 pm on October 17th

aneitafash writes: This sleeve will be on my to do list for sure. Thanks.
Posted: 9:51 am on October 17th

ALY writes: This is a lovely sleeve. Re: the instructions to measure from A to B and C to D. Point A and C are shown on the shoulder point of the old armhole. To measure to points B&D would require measuring along the short distance of the shoulder seam and then turning and measuring along the curve of the new armscye. Is this correct? Seems more logical to me for points A and C to be located at the top of the new armhole curve.
Posted: 7:58 am on October 17th

user-2068325 writes: Wow! what a fantastic sleeve. Yes I will definitely be making this..Thanks a heap.
Posted: 12:04 am on October 17th

BarbaraHewitt writes: How fun--I will try the banded armseye. I always learn something from your articles. Thank you
Posted: 6:49 pm on October 16th

LuvThreadsMagazine writes: Her siren's song sung, the upcoming issue is all I can see, as it's full speed ahead into the rocks of a bookstore cash register.
Posted: 4:18 pm on October 16th

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