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How to do a Fell Stitch

June 22nd, 2009 in sewing, garment construction, fundamentals

Kenneth King, contributor

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Photo: Kenneth D. King

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Also called an “appliqué stitch,” a fell (or “felling”) stitch is used to appliqué one layer of fabric (generally a folded or selvage edge) to another. It’s quick, strong, and flexible—the piece sewn on with a fell stitch can move somewhat like a hinge, and that makes it good for installing linings. It is also used to sew lace—either as appliqués or appliqué seams. The fell stitch is seen in millinery work as well as clothing; it is used to attach hat bodies to brims and to attach hatbands to hats. The stitches themselves typically sit 90 degrees to the edge, or they can be angled slightly.

1. Emerge on the folded edge. The stitch should be about 1mm away from the fold.

2. Insert the needle directly into the fabric next to the fold. Run it diagonally so that it emerges beyond the first stitch.

3. Pull the stitch closed. See how the stitch sits 90 degrees to the fold? Sew the stitches between 1⁄8 to 1⁄4 inch apart.

Except from Threads, Issue 135, p. 65.

posted in: sewing, garment construction, fundamentals

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Comments (6)

Gladtobehere writes: This is a very simply way to explain applique stitch.

Love the way you present the stitch. Have use this
stitch many times. Posted: 6:31 pm on November 5th

sewingpuzzle writes: Cool! My grandma and great-grandmother were professional quilt makers for upscale families in Louisville, KY, many years ago. Some of their personal quilts have lovely applique, but I never knew how it was done. Thanks to your illustration, now I do! Posted: 12:34 pm on September 22nd

Izzy1974 writes: Keep the tips and tutorials coming!!!! They're fantastic!!! Posted: 12:16 am on August 27th

purpleque writes: Kenneth,

This is the best and simpliest explanation of the stitch. I love your tips. Keep them coming! Posted: 1:09 pm on July 13th