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Ralph Rucci’s Double-Cloth Seams


by Judith Neukam
An Online Extra to Threads #139, pp.50-55

You will find double-cloth seams all through Rucci’s collection. Double cloth comes in a variety of fibers. Sometimes the layers are different colors as shown in our illustrations.

Figure 1

Figure 2

1. Cut your pattern piece from the fabric with the seam allowances. Pull the fabric apart to separate the layers just along the cut edge.

2. Align the two double layer fabrics wrong sides together. Pull the top layer away from the stitching and sew the seam through three layers (half of the top layer and both sides of the bottom layer).


Figure 4

Figure 3

3. Trim the seam allowances and fold the loose edge inside the fabric as shown.

4. From the right side of the fabric, hand stitch invisibly along the fold to encase the seam allowance and complete the seam.


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