Double cloth patch pocket:
Here’s a beauty shot of the pocket installed. Note that it’s installed with a pick stitch (a hand stitch), which is as strong as a machine stitch.
There are two operations shown here: finishing the top edge, and making the finished shape of the pocket. These techniques can be adapted to other areas of a double cloth jacket.
To begin, mark with thread basting, the finished outlines of the pocket. I’m using 1 1/4″ seam allowances here, to make shaping the finished edge easier. Also, at the top edge, baste 1 3/8″ (or twice the seam allowance plus 1/8″).
Then, with sharp scissors, split the double cloth to these rows of basting. After splitting, press the edges flat.
Stay the top edge first. Cut a length of silk organza, on the lengthwise grain. This strip is 1 1/4″ wide, and pressed in half lengthwise. Separate the two layers of the double cloth, and pin the back side (plaid) out of the way. Pin the strip of organza along the top edge, along the back of the “public” side (solid). Stitch the organza to the solid colored seam allowance, at 1/2″ for a 5/8″ seam. This is what it looks like from the front side. The organza will be contained within the layers in the final product. Next, press the organza towards the raw edge of the seam allowance. Trim the organza to match the cut edge of the wool. Now, press the seam allowance into position, making sure the stay stitching you just sewed is 1/8″ in from the fold. Next, trim away the plaid fabric around the three sides of the pocket, to the basting. This will represent the finished outlines of the patch pocket. Now, press the seam allowance back on the plaid side of the top edge. To finish…