A student in a recent class needed to hem the skirt of her garment. Nothing particularly challenging there. But, the skirt had a pleated panel in the back, and I suggested a slightly different approach for hemming the pleated area.
Normally, we fold up the hem allowance, and sew it in place. That can be done with pleats, too, but the area around seamlines becomes very lumpy and takes away from the crisp definition that we look for in a pleated hemline. So here’s what we did:
This is the back of the dress; you can see that there’s a pleat to either side of the center back seam.
The seamline just above the hem has been opened up, and the hem allowance has been turned up into place.
The hem allowance has been stitched with catch stitches, and the seam has been re-sewn. The bottom edges have been carefully lined up.
There are two raw edges to deal with, though–one at the back of each pleat–and bias strips of silk organza have been prepared.
The bias strips have been pinned into place along the lower part of the vertical skirt seam (the back edge of the pleat, in fact); they’ll first be sewn in place by machine.
The raw edges of the strips have been turned under and will be sewn into place by hand.
The inside of the finished hem.