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Leather Lacing for Fantasy Fur Jacket

Kenneth D. King walks through his process of choosing the type and placement of lacing that holds a leather yoke to fur.
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I experimented with different materials and methods of lacing, to see which one would work best for this project. Several of the experiments were not what I wanted for the garment.

Leather lacing experiments

I’ll keep this sample, because I liked some of the results, but not for this jacket.
These are initial experiments for joining the shoulder and the fur to the leather.
Two variations of the join between the upper yoke and side yoke were interesting and worth consideration.
I tried yet another variation of joins.
This is the combination of joins I decided on for the project.
A close-up of the join between the leather and fur shows what I liked about this lacing: It camouflaged the edge of the leather best.
I used the pinked edge provided by the rotary cutter to mark the repeat. With the chisel punch, I then punched the holes into the upper yoke.
After punching the upper yoke, I glued the upper yoke to the lower yoke with contact cement using a lapped seam approach, as shown from the front.

 

A back view shows where the upper yoke laps the lower yoke.
Here’s an inside view.

Next, I’ll cut the lower edge of the yoke (marked) with the pinked rotary cutter, then mark and punch the double row of holes that will join that edge to the fur.

On the seam that joins the upper yoke to the lower yoke, I need to punch another set of holes, using the pinked edge as my guide.

Lacing how-to

This is a variation of something I learned in woodshop class in the eighth grade. It’s a technique you see on hand-tooled leather handbags from Mexico. The lacing will look like a sideways chainstitch. It’s called the double cordover.

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  1. lei739 | | #1

    Bored? Never!

  2. dreamlady | | #2

    Very interesting, I loved the leather stitch technique.Very detailed instruction thnx

  3. User avater
    carynification | | #3

    I am loving it. I have some extra kaphalon hair from when I get my weaves, and am itching to try something like this. I am thinking maybe a shrug though. You are giving me great ideas. I wish I had you as a personal tutor!!!

  4. User avater
    Ziggybug | | #4

    I am definely inspired to try new things when I read your articles. Your instructions are so clear and concise. I've been itching to do some sewing with leather. The message I get from you is to go boldly and never be afraid to try something new.

  5. LaurieDiane | | #5

    I find this process most intriguing! I love the lace stitching and the pattern taking place. I can not wait to see the finished project...It seems finished now with the interesting shoulders and neckline! Sensational!

  6. Dressmakers_dummy | | #6

    This is truly one of the coolest things I have seen since I started sewing as a kid. It makes me want to get out my 5 skins of blue suede and do something with them.

  7. prterrier | | #7

    I like what you are doing to the seams. I never would have thought of it even though I've laced many a wallet and purse similar to what you are doing over the seams on the yokes.

    I would like to make a suggestion to you. The leather lacing will stretch some. I think you need to pull the stitching a bit tighter. Not so tight as to make the leather of the yoke inside of the lacing curl, but tight enough so the "braid" formed by the leather is tighter. If you don't, I am afraid that you won't like the end result after wearing it a few times. I invision the "braid" becoming looser and more "loopy".

    A great cement to hold the ends of your lacing is "Barge Cement". Shoemakers use it to repair shoes. It is a great contact type of cement.

  8. User avater
    KennethDKing | | #8

    to prterrier:

    Thanks for the suggestions! I'm using the synthetic lacing for this project, precisely for the reason you mentioned--the synthetic has a cotton core so doesn't stretch quite so much.

    And yes, Barge cement is a good product that I use on occasion, but I just happened to have a whole can of the contact cement from another project so wanted to use it up...

  9. imlady | | #9

    It is always good to read your articles and see the quality of your work.

  10. jillsart | | #10

    I am entranced with your whole process PLUS, PLUS, PLUS, I bet even I could follow your easier than easy instructions!

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