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Tailoring with Felted Wool, Part 2: How to Sew a Decorative Welt Pocket

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In the first part of the Bark Coat project, I shared how I created a tailored coat from wool felt. I even showed you how I designed the tree bark motif on a half-scale and demonstrated how to create what I call a “pounce pattern.” Here, I walk you through my technique for adding a decorative welt pocket on a wool felt coat.

This wool felt “bark coat” needs welt pockets. The standard welt pocket is constructed with more layers than I want for this piece, so I needed to develop a new option that had less bulk.

More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King:

more on tailoringHow to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1
How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 2
How to Make a Tailored Collar
How to Replace a Sleeve Lining
How to Make a Perfect Notched Lapel
How to Sew a Catch Stitch

welt pocket

Felt is a nonwoven, so you can use the fabric’s cut edge as a finished edge.

You can use this pocket with leather as well, as the cut edge on leather doesn’t need a finish.

Drafting the pattern:

1. The pocket opening length on coats is generally 6 inches for women and 7 inches for men. The double welts in the photo are the men’s length. The width of the opening is 1/2 inch, so the welts will show 1/4 inch wide each.

The shape of the placket shows on the right side and is determined by your design. I chose the straightforward one shown below. The lengthwise sides of the placket are 1 inch away from the welts, and the ends are brought to a point, as shown in blue.

draft the pocket pattern 1Draft the pocket bag to accommodate your hand comfortably. The shape is shown in pink in this photo and fits the welt on the placket.

2.…

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  1. user-1116680 | | #1

    ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING Kenneth King creates is Magnificent...those decorative welt pockets are the BEST!!!

  2. User avater
    KennethDKing | | #2

    You're very kind! This pocket just came to me in a flash, when I was designing this coat.

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