Tailoring with Felted Wool, Part 2: How to Sew a Decorative Welt Pocket
In the first part of the Bark Coat project, I shared how I created a tailored coat from wool felt. I even showed you how I designed the tree bark motif on a half-scale and demonstrated how to create what I call a “pounce pattern.” Here, I walk you through my technique for adding a decorative welt pocket on a wool felt coat.
This wool felt “bark coat” needs welt pockets. The standard welt pocket is constructed with more layers than I want for this piece, so I needed to develop a new option that had less bulk.
More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King:
• How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1
• How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 2
• How to Make a Tailored Collar
• How to Replace a Sleeve Lining
• How to Make a Perfect Notched Lapel
• How to Sew a Catch Stitch
Felt is a nonwoven, so you can use the fabric’s cut edge as a finished edge.
You can use this pocket with leather as well, as the cut edge on leather doesn’t need a finish.
Drafting the pattern:
1. The pocket opening length on coats is generally 6 inches for women and 7 inches for men. The double welts in the photo are the men’s length. The width of the opening is 1/2 inch, so the welts will show 1/4 inch wide each.
The shape of the placket shows on the right side and is determined by your design. I chose the straightforward one shown below. The lengthwise sides of the placket are 1 inch away from the welts, and the ends are brought to a point, as shown in blue.
Draft the pocket bag to accommodate your hand comfortably. The shape is shown in pink in this photo and fits the welt on the placket.
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