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Tailoring with Felted Wool, Part 3: How to Add Facings

Now that the body of the felted wool “bark” coat has been constructed and welt pocket has been installed, the collar and facings need to be attached.

The collar installation on the bark coat is different from the installation of a traditional notched lapel on a tailored jacket. The reason is, in part, because I wanted to camouflage the neck seam so that it doesn’t contrast harshly with the coat body’s seams when the collar is turned up. This technique makes the neck seam appear to be another curvilinear seam.

More tailoring techniques from Kenneth D. King:

more on tailoringHow to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 1
How to Make a Surgeon’s Cuff, Part 2
How to Make a Tailored Collar
How to Replace a Sleeve Lining
How to Make a Perfect Notched Lapel
How to Sew a Catch Stitch

I’ve made a pounce pattern of the undercollar, marking the finished stitching line, the curvilinear lines, the neck seam, and the center back.

mark the collar

1. Mark the collar onto the fabric with the pounce pad, hand-baste the center-back line, and machine-baste the finished stitching lines of the collar edge and neck seam.

match center backs and pin and baste neck seams

2. After cutting the curvilinear seam below the neck seam, match the the collar’s center backs and neck seams to the coat body.

Pin in place, and hand-baste the neck seams of the collar and coat body together.

pin curvilinear parts of collar

3. Pin the curvilinear parts of the collar down, fanning the pieces out to follow the coat body’s shape.

center back and neck seam

4. Stitch the collar down with free-motion stitching, stopping short of the collar’s ends.

leave cut edge of neck seam untrimmed to tack down the upper collar later

5. Trim the seam allowance from the neck seam on the coat body, along the machine basting.

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