An Alternative to Clipping Seam AllowancesTrimming the allowances reduces bulk and understitching keeps the lining in place
To make a smooth seam along a curved edge such as a neckline or armhole, you need to control the seam allowances. To learn how to keep them flat without compromising the curve, watch this video extra from Threads #189 (Feb./March 2017). This method is an alternative to clipping seam allowances.
The tutorial walks through the process of trimming the seam allowances and then understitching. The narrow but unclipped seam allowance maintains the curved shape. Meanwhile, the understitching keeps the lining or facing from showing on the garment’s right side.
Read a detailed explanation of this alternative to clipping seam allowances in “Essential Techniques: Skip Clipping” by Martyn Smith, a tailor and teacher based in Queensland, Australia, who has extensive experience sewing garments and embroidering by machine.
If you prefer to clip . . .
If you would rather use the tried-and-true way of reducing seam allowance bulk, check out several Threads videos that further explain and demonstrate the process.
“How to Clip Curves Accurately”
There’s also the option to use pinking shears for reducing seam allowance bulk:
“A Shortuct for Clipping Seam Allowances”
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i know the answer it to understitch on bias necklines... but this is brilliant. thanks.
Have been secretly doing this for years - now I don't feel so guilty about it! A very helpful technique for corsetry and lingerie work. Thanks again!
Very helpful tutorial. I will use this instead of clipping.
YES! Of course this is best
Beautiful! I have never been a fan of clipping and leaving all that bulk inside. One additional tip I might suggest is to reduce the stitch length and leave only 1/8 inch seam allowance; it works fine even with stiff/dense fabrics.
Do you first clip and then understitch, or the other way around?