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How to Make a Mitered Pocket Welt

Threads #191, June/July 2017
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In Threads #191, author Pamela Leggett shows how to create a cardigan-style jacket reminiscent of a classic French designer jacket, but in a knit fabric. This unstructured, comfortable jacket will be a welcome year-round wardrobe staple.

Because most knits aren’t stable enough to support true welt pockets, Pamela recommends making faux pockets by applying welts without pocket bags. For a sleek flat welt, try the method shown.

This welt was originally described by Judy Barlup, in Threads #75 (February/March 2008). It’s a clever approach that shifts the welt’s short seamlines away from the ends, where they can be bulky, and around to the welt’s wrong side. Judy’s instructions show you how to create a pattern for welts of any size or shape. If you’re looking for a basic rectangular welt, Pamela provides you with a pattern.

Download and print the pattern, then follow these steps.

1. Interface a rectangle of fabric large enough to accommodate the pattern. Apply a lightweight knit fusible to the fabric’s wrong side. Then cut the welt.


2. With right sides together, fold the welt along its foldline. Then, align the end seamlines and sew the seams, using a 1/4-inch-wide seam allowance.


3. Press the seam allowances open over a point presser. Turn the welt right side out and press it into a rectangle. The seams are positioned diagonally on the finished welt’s wrong side.



4. Attach the welt as desired.

download free welt pattern

You can use this pattern for any welt pocket.

It’s easy to lengthen, if needed.

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  1. User avater PairsHilton May 25th

    Really like this

  2. ChrisHaynes May 26th

    Issue #75 was in 1998. I used it recently by checking out welt pockets on my Threads Archive.

  3. morantes January 22nd


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