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How to Conceal a Zipper Pull | Sewing Saves

A clever band keeps the tab undercover
Threads #204, Aug./Sep. 2019

One of the best developments in garment-making has been the invisible zipper. I was making a 1960s-inspired special-occasion dress in a wonderful raw silk and my client wanted a back zipper, along with a row of tiny buttons. I experimented with bridal button loops and discovered the zipper pull shows—which distracted from the decorative buttons and loops—and got in the way of the button loops. After testing, I found a way to keep the center-back zipper hidden, all the way to the top. I adjusted the pattern to add a neckband, then I extended the neckline seam allowances to set the zipper higher. The band hides the zipper pull. This technique worked perfectly for the dress neckline I was sewing, but you can easily adapt it for a skirt or pants waistband. Buttons and loops are optional.

Di Kendall, a long-time teacher of sewing and tailoring, can be found online at Sew-It.biz.

1. Add to the back-neck edge and insert the zipper.

At the zipper opening, and for 1-1⁄2 inches to each side, add 3⁄4 inch to the neckline edge. Thread-trace the neck seamline. If you’re using button loops, add them at this point. Insert the invisible zipper using your preferred method. Align it so the top stop is below the fabric’s upper edge and the pull is above the thread-traced seamline.


hide the zipper top


See the rest of the step-by-step guide by clicking on View PDF below.

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