Invisible zippers are my preferred closure, as they provide a clean, bulk-free finish. They are usually inserted by machine sewing with a special foot designed to hold the zipper coil away from the tape while stitching. While this method works on most fabrics, I frequently work with specialty fabrics where machine sewing is not the best option.

Here’s a method of installing an invisible zipper by hand. This approach has many advantages. It ensures perfect matching at any intersecting seams and there’s no danger of damaging, distorting, or stretching the fashion fabric. Some fabrics, such as guipure lace, are too highly textured to pass evenly under the presser foot. Slippery fabrics such as silk or velvet may shift during machine stitching. Wrestling a voluminous bridal gown or delicate lace dress under the sewing machine’s needle can subject the garments to damage, or simply be awkward and difficult to control.