When constructing garments, you inevitably end up sewing across intersecting darts and seams. This occurs where a bust dart meets a side seam, or a skirt’s side seam intersects a waistline seam. You may think it is a good idea to neatly secure those seam allowances and dart intakes by stitching over them, but you can cause problems when you do so. Threads Contributing Editor Susan Khalje shares a couture technique that solves these issues.
With darts, stitching over the intake at the seamline can pull the fabric off-grain and cause drag lines that look like fit issues. The seam restricts the movement of the dart intake, too, so there is a constant downward tug on the dart and area around it.
To avoid this and to eliminate bulk at the seamline: Sew the seam as far as the dart seamline, stop, then back-tack. Move the dart intake out…
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