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Streamlined Tailoring

Smart techniques for nonraveling fabrics

Threads #205, Oct./Nov. 2019
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For colder weather, lofty wool fabrics that have been felted, fulled, or boiled are cozy and comfortable. They are thick enough that you can use them as a single-layered, unlined garment, and they’re classier than polyester fleece. However, eliminating bulk along seamlines and edges can be a challenge. These textiles call for sewing methods that reduce thickness and take advantage of the fabric’s resistance to raveling. The techniques aren’t difficult, but they are different from standard garment assembly. The result is a garment with a structured appearance, but without needing all the steps or inner layers used in traditional tailoring.

I found a dense, charcoal gray, fulled wool (I’ve heard it called “carriage cloth”) that was perfect for a frock coat I designed, inspired by an 18th-century model. It has a collar on a high stand, vents in the back skirt, shaped pocket flaps, and wide sleeve…

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  1. StashaNovak October 3rd

    Stunning

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